This Easter season, Marks and Spencer has introduced a savoury twist on the classic hot cross bun, swapping traditional dried fruit for cheese. The retail giant's Extremely Cheesy Cheddar and Red Leicester Hot Cross Buns, priced at £2.70, promise a bold flavour experience. But how do they stack up against a homemade version crafted from a Good Food recipe? In a head-to-head taste test, the differences were striking and revealing.
The Visual and Textural Differences
The most immediate contrast lies in the appearance and texture of the buns. The M&S offering is roughly half the height of the homemade version, suggesting a superior rise in the latter. Texture-wise, M&S's bun resembles a soft brioche roll, compressing easily without bouncing back, while the homemade variant has a more substantial, bread-like consistency. This brioche-style dough in the M&S bun carries a subtle sweetness, which may appeal to some palates but feels distinctly shop-bought.
Cheese Content and Flavour Profile
Where the competition truly heats up is in the cheese department. M&S incorporates extra-mature cheddar and Red Leicester, but the homemade buns go much further. Featuring not only those cheeses but also mozzarella and Double Gloucester, the homemade version delivers a bolder, more indulgent cheese hit. The addition of thyme and mustard powder in the recipe deepens the flavour, lending an artisanal quality that feels less processed.
Visually, the homemade buns boast speckled patches of lightly charred cheese, giving them a rustic appeal. In contrast, M&S's buns are more uniform—a testament to mass production, though achieving perfect consistency by hand is admittedly challenging.
Value for Money and Overall Verdict
At 67p per bun, M&S's offering is affordable, but the small size raises questions about value. Enlarging the buns slightly could make them feel like a better deal. While not disappointing, they fall short of their "extremely cheesy" promise, feeling underwhelming to a dedicated cheese lover.
The two varieties are so dissimilar that comparing them almost feels unfair. M&S deserves credit for innovation, but it cannot rival a homemade hot cross bun in cheese intensity or artisanal charm. For next Easter, a broader selection of cheeses or hidden chunks of extra-mature cheese could elevate M&S's version to new heights.
In summary, if you crave convenience and a subtle, brioche-like treat, M&S's cheese hot cross buns are a decent option. But for a truly cheesy, robust Easter experience, homemade is the clear winner. The quest for the ultimate cheese hot cross bun continues, with room for both supermarket and home kitchen to improve.
