Kevin Lee, owner of Happy Seasons in Manchester's Chinatown, explains the painstaking two-day process behind the restaurant's renowned roast duck, a favorite of Manchester City star Erling Haaland. But finding skilled chefs capable of such traditional Cantonese dishes is becoming nearly impossible.
Staffing Challenges and Visa Rules
Lee notes that Happy Seasons' main chef, Huang, spent 20 years in China honing his skills before moving to the UK. However, tightened visa rules now make recruiting similar talent extremely difficult. Meanwhile, second and third-generation British Chinese are increasingly unwilling to enter the hospitality industry, exacerbating the shortage.
Rising Costs Squeeze Margins
Combined with sharp increases in energy bills and produce costs—driven by the wars in Ukraine and the Middle East—Lee and other restaurateurs fear for the future of traditional Chinese eateries. A case of chicken that cost £20 now costs £40-45, while sweet and sour chicken rose from £11 to £14-15, with Lee absorbing costs to avoid passing them to customers.
Social Media Outcry
Lee shared his concerns on Happy Seasons' Instagram, stating: "We don’t think places like ours will last another decade if things continue the way they are. Younger generations are slowly stepping away from hospitality. The government continues to increase costs on our industry, while bills, rent, and even basic stock keep rising." The posts resonated widely, reflecting shared struggles among small businesses.
A Changing Chinatown
Warren Yeung, owner of Little Yang Sing since 1987, echoes the staffing woes. "Less and less people want to get into catering—Chinese or Brits. It's a bloody long hours job," he says. Yeung, now 69, has no one to pass his restaurant to, as his children chose different paths. He missed their upbringing due to late nights at work.
Chinatown itself is evolving. A recent survey by the Manchester Evening News counted 17 Chinese restaurants alongside six Japanese noodle bars, five Thai eateries, three Vietnamese pho cafes, one Korean fried chicken shop, and several bubble tea cafes. "People want to try different things," Yeung says. "They want a bowl of pho for £14 that fills their belly, not a two- or three-course meal."
New Breed of Businesses
Katie Tye, manager of Ohayo Tea, represents this shift. She notes an influx of immigrants and students from China and Hong Kong, alongside a boom in K-pop and Asian culture, making diners more receptive to diverse cuisines. "Now it's more about unique restaurants and experiences," she says.
Preserving Tradition
Efforts to preserve traditional cuisine include the UK Chinese Food & Drink Festival, held at M8 Hotpot Restaurant in Cheetham Hill, featuring a culinary competition. Simon Li of the UK Chinese Culinary Culture Association warns: "The people running these restaurants are not getting any younger. If we don't have enough skilled local chefs, we will lose tradition, heritage, and pride in the area."
Hope for the Future
Despite the challenges, Lee remains optimistic: "I might not be here in 10 years, but Chinatown will be. There's still a big demand, and it's a good place to trade. Chinatown is one of Manchester's attractions." Yeung agrees: "Chinese people always come up with new ways to make a living. There will be a new idea, a new type of cuisine popping up."
