The landlady of one of Soho's most iconic pubs has warned that stopping punters from standing at bars is "pretty much the kiss of death". Westminster City Council has proposed restricting or removing "vertical drinking" in the area.
Historic venue faces 'hammerblow'
Lesley Lewis, who has run The French House pub and dining room in Central London for 37 years, called the plans a "hammerblow" to the historic venue, which opened in 1891. The Tory-run council is consulting on plans to encourage table service in Soho and the wider West End to "discourage excessive drunkenness".
Ms Lewis, 71, said: "This is pretty much the kiss of death, if they do that. If people choose to have tables and waiter service, that's great – a lot of places do but they're usually big places. We just can't make it work and certainly we'd lose half our staff, which I also don't want to do. I'm fighting to keep them all on. It's just miserable, it's another hammerblow at the pub."
Council denies ban claims
Westminster Council has denied claims the proposal amounts to an effective ban on standing in pubs. Deputy council leader Tim Barnes called such suggestions "utterly ludicrous", adding: "Our guidance is simply about encouraging venues to manage their customers so people don't pack on to pavements or excessive drinking doesn't disturb others passing by."
The compact venue is an institution in Soho, a favourite among celebrities over the years. Madness lead singer Suggs was among those enjoying a drink outside on Thursday afternoon.
Patrons and industry react
Ms Lewis said The French House "relies" on people being able to enjoy beverages outside, and pub-goers said sipping drinks along Soho's streets is part of its appeal. Conrad Langley, 34, who was enjoying a drink with his wife, said: "You know what you're expecting when you come to Soho. Let's not strangle the businesses that are already suffering. You're limiting capacity for them by doing that."
Friends Lewis Watts, 33, and Adam Wright, 25, also expressed concerns. Lewis said ordering at the bar is the "charm" of pubs, while Adam said he preferred drinking outside because they quickly get "packed" inside.
A Campaign For Real Ale (CAMRA) London spokesperson warned some venues could shut if the plans go ahead, saying they resemble a "return" to Covid-era restrictions. They added: "It would reduce social interaction and would restrict numbers in any establishment and cause some pubs already struggling to be no longer viable."
Sector already struggling
The sector is already reeling from Labour raising employers' national insurance contributions. Emma McClarkin, CEO of the British Beer and Pub Association, said: "When two pubs are closing each day and publicans only make 12p profit per pint, any measure that will reduce customer numbers, increase staffing costs and further squeeze operating margins is a total misstep."
Michael Kill, CEO of the Night Time Industries Association, warned a shift towards more seating and reduced standing "risks changing the very character of these venues". George Miles, assistant general manager at The Toucan, famous for its pours of Guinness, said: "Pubs thrive in this area because it's unique."
Mayor of London Sir Sadiq Khan blasted the council's "restrictive and anti-growth policies" and indicated he would challenge them under new powers to be granted by the government.
Defending the proposals, Mr Barnes said: "We are the country's largest planning authority with some 4,000 licensed venues. We reject less than 1.5% of licence applications and there is a strong desire to see thriving, profitable venues across Westminster. As we have made clear we are happy to work with the Mayor of London on licensing and have just launched our own campaign to promote nights out in Soho."
