Vaud, a mountainous district bordering Lake Geneva to the south and France to the west, offers a solution to Switzerland's overtourism problems. Famous for its focus on 'slow tourism,' this storybook canton is a great destination for anyone looking to take things handy and fully immerse in local culture. The best things are free: swimming in lakes, strolling through markets, and hiking in the mountains.
Morges: Switzerland's Prettiest Destination?
My journey began in Morges, an historic town around 40 minutes from Geneva that was founded in 1286. My guide, Stefanie, said its appeal lies in its natural beauty, chilled-out atmosphere and the spectacular countryside, rather than a headline attraction. Elegant lakeside hotels sit beside independent cafés, and colourful flower displays line the waterfront. Each spring since 1971, the Tulip Festival transforms the waterfront into a riot of colour with more than 140,000 bulbs planted across the parks and promenades. Running from April to May, it attracts around 300,000 visitors each year and is one of the largest spring events in the region.
The surrounding villages are just as charming. Stefanie explains that many have strict regulations on the colours residents can use, to maintain a consistent look—rules taken very seriously in Switzerland. Beyond the waterfront, visitors can stop by Espace 81, a contemporary art gallery hosting a temporary Audrey Hepburn exhibition this summer. Also worth a visit is the Fondation Jan Michalski in the nearby municipality of Montricher, a place built on the arts, drawing inspiration from Scandinavian authors and designers, and architects from Brazil and Chile. Its most striking feature is the collection of elevated writer residences that resemble modern treehouses.
Château de Vullierens and Swiss Wine
One must-visit is Château de Vullierens, just outside Morges. The historic family estate spans more than 100 hectares, including six hectares of vineyards. There, I learned that Swiss wine is almost never exported: the country produces 99 million litres per year and consumes the vast majority domestically. A wine tasting experience typically costs around CHF 92 (£85), offering a special opportunity to taste wines in the region where they're produced. The grounds also feature themed walks, contemporary sculptures and thousands of flowers.
Nyon: Roman Roots and Local Culture
For the second half of the trip, I headed to Nyon, another lakeside town 20 minutes by train from Morges (prices from as little as £6.50 one-way). Founded by the Romans under Julius Caesar between 50 and 44 BC, Nyon is more deeply rooted in its past. Abundant natural drinking fountains are everywhere, preserved and used by locals, allowing them to feel part of ancient history, according to my guide Heidi. The town has a self-guided Tintin tour, the Swiss National Museum of Motorcycles and Musée du Léman – The Lake Geneva Museum.
For local cuisine, book a table at Chez Mon Oncle, a Nyon institution. Expect to pay around CHF 95 (£88) for a hearty meal for two, and order cheese specialities like Malakoff. Rested, I set off on part of the famous Toblerone Trail, named for anti-tank fortifications built during World War II. The 18km hike takes you through some 3,000 triangular tank traps hidden among leafy trees and babbling rivers, between the Jura peaks and Lake Geneva. My only gripe: no chocolate on this trail!
If you have time, visit Rolle, a charming lakeside town with Île de la Harpe, the only island on Lake Geneva. For my final morning, I browsed the Sunday market, with stalls of local cheeses like raclette, cured meats, fresh bread, honey, nougat, rotisserie, olives, and fresh vegetables. Nyon is also home to the Paléo Festival, one of Switzerland's biggest music events, running July 21-26 (sold out for 2026; plan for 2027).
As I relaxed beside Lake Geneva, I reflected that Vaud achieves exactly what it sets out to do. It hadn’t overwhelmed me with bucket-list attractions or jam-packed itineraries. Instead, it encouraged me to slow down, look around and appreciate the little things.
Getting There
SWISS Airlines fly direct from London to Geneva from £113 (around two hours). A train from Geneva Airport reaches Vaud in under an hour. A single journey from Geneva Airport to Morges costs around CHF 16 (£15).
