Kyriakos Antonopoulos warns, "Don't trust the ropes on your right; they can be a bit loose." This advice is crucial when scrambling up steep rocks with sheer cliffs dropping nearly 100 feet to the Ionian Sea. Instead of relying on guide ropes, gripping metal staples and finding handholds, we emerge at a grassy terrace overlooking Voidakilia Beach—one of Greece's most spectacular—and the mouth of Nestor's Cave. Bees drone ominously near the entrance, and the muddy limestone cave is slick but cool and peaceful. It's hard to imagine this remote spot filled with a Hollywood production, but director Christopher Nolan filmed Matt Damon and actors here for a cyclops encounter using a 6x6-metre mechanical puppet and specially trained sheep from Italy.
The Odyssey Film and Its Greek Connection
Set for release in 2026, 'The Odyssey' is based on Homer's epic poem, starring Damon as Odysseus alongside Tom Holland, Anne Hathaway, Zendaya, and Robert Pattinson. The story follows Odysseus's 10-year journey home after the Trojan War, battling cyclops, sirens, and gods. Nolan filmed key scenes in Messenia, a region in the Peloponnese. Antonopoulos notes, "This place is going to be very famous because of the movie. The Odyssey was one of the most expensive films in Hollywood, costing $250 million."
Messenia: A Hidden Greek Paradise
Unlike Crete or Santorini, Messenia remains underappreciated, with quiet towns, authentic tavernas, and gorgeous beaches but fewer tourists. Driving from Kalamata airport, mountain roads cut through olive-tree-covered hillsides. We stay at Costa Navarino, a massive development with four luxury hotels, golf courses, and restaurants. While the cast stayed at the W hotel, we split time between The Romanos and The Westin. Mornings begin with private plunge pools, and challenges include choosing restaurants and pools. Memorable meals include Italian at Da Luigi (goat's cheese salad, shrimp linguini) with Navarino Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, seafood at Barbouni beach club, and modern Greek at Paráfrasi by Michelin-starred chef Alexandros Tsiotinis. Afternoons are spent at the Aqua Park waterslides.
Odyssey-Inspired Tours and Treatments
The hotels offer a new history tour visiting Nestor's Palace, one of the best-preserved Mycenaean palaces, and Pylos, including Niokastro fortress and the Archaeological Museum. The Anazoe Spa offers Odyssey-related treatments; I enjoyed a sea salt and olive oil exfoliation, olive oil body wrap, and a long head massage—ideal after a decade of battling gods.
One morning, we E-bike through olive-tree-lined roads to Gialova Lagoon, a wetland for migratory birds including flamingos. Tiny frogs cross the road. We walk along semi-circular Voidakilia Beach, which Antonopoulos calls the Omega Beach due to its shape. "This is the most famous and most beautiful beach on mainland Greece," he says. We hike up a sandy path and climb rocky trails. Besides filming at Nestor's Cave, a trireme (ancient warship) was reportedly spotted in the bay. Antonopoulos reflects, "Homer and The Odyssey are very important to us. The message is to be patient. For 10 years, he fought to get home." Higher up, we reach Paleokastro, a 13th-century Frankish ruin with stunning views of Voidakilia Beach and Gialova Lagoon.
Exploring Nearby Castles and Coast
We drive along the coast to Methoni Castle, where locals saw cast members in soldier costumes carrying spears and shields, with ancient galleys in the waters. We cross a stone walkway over a dry moat, explore sprawling grounds with ramparts, a keep, and a church where Nolan filmed. At the far end, a causeway leads to Bourtzi, an octagonal tower on an islet surrounded by the blue Ionian Sea.
On our final morning, we visit Voidakilia again, nearly empty. Paddling in cool shallow water, I reflect on our pleasant Greek Odyssey, hoping our journey home is less problematic than Odysseus's.
Elegant Resorts offers 7 nights at The Romanos from £2,275 per person B&B, including flights. Car hire from Kalamata with Green Motion costs from £90 per week. Jet2 flies from UK airports to Kalamata from £80 one way. Rooms at Radisson Blu London Stansted cost from £115 B&B.
