Viral TikTok reviews of artisan bakeries across London are igniting a debate over cost, culture, and who gets a slice of the city. Creators Moses Combe, 21, and Kobi Coker, 27, have gained traction by visiting upmarket cafes in gentrifying neighbourhoods, comparing them to high-street staples like Greggs.
Combe's 'Endz Department for Research' series began after a video listing north London favourites Jolene, Gail's, and De Beauvoir Deli drew incredulous local responses. He spent £14.20 at Jolene on a hot chocolate, sausage roll, and tiramisu, describing the sausage roll as 'not quite Greggs' but 'pretty decent'. A crowdfunder for the series has raised £2,566 of its £3,000 target.
Coker, a comedian and educator, reviews spots like Dusty Knuckle bakery, where he spent £17.30 on egg and bacon hot cross buns he called 'absolutely sensational'. He said his exploration of 'gentrified' spaces began when he noticed queues outside new establishments on his cycle commute. On gentrification, he expressed mixed feelings: 'People that made the community what it is aren’t necessarily able to participate in it.'
Business owners have welcomed the attention. Matthew Roberts, operations manager at Jolene, said: 'It’s all very positive. Even if we don’t necessarily measure up to Greggs in everyone’s view.' He emphasised that conversations about gentrification can flatten businesses of different scales, and that Jolene aims to be inclusive. Harry Davies of De Beauvoir Deli defended prices, noting they pay the London living wage and use sustainable ingredients, adding, 'People assume it’s full of people with £3m houses, but that’s not the case.'
The reviews highlight tensions between long-standing residents and newcomers, as well as the challenge for independent businesses to balance quality, cost, and community access. Combe and Coker continue to investigate the changes in their own backyards, one pastry at a time.
