TikTok Creators Put London's 'Gentrified' Bakeries Under the Microscope
Viral TikTok reviews of artisan bakeries and cafes across London are igniting a heated debate over cost, culture, and accessibility in the capital's evolving food landscape. What began as a simple weekend guide has transformed into a social media movement examining who gets to enjoy—and afford—the city's trendy eateries.
The 'Endz Department for Research' Begins Its Investigation
It all started when a woman in her twenties posted a TikTok video detailing her perfect weekend in north London, mentioning bakeries like Jolene and Gail's along with the De Beauvoir Deli. The response from locals was immediate and skeptical, with many commenting they had never heard of these establishments.
This prompted 21-year-old north Londoner Moses Combe to launch what he calls the "Endz Department for Research," a series of videos where he reviews upmarket cafes he wouldn't normally visit in his local area. His first stop was Jolene, where he purchased a hot chocolate, sausage roll, and his first-ever tiramisu cake, which he described as "bloody lovely."
"They did not skimp out with that sausage, bro," Combe told his followers about the sausage roll, while noting the £14.20 bill made it "not quite Greggs." A crowdfunder to continue his investigations into "the change going on in our own back yards" has already raised £2,566 of its £3,000 target.
Comedians and Content Creators Join the Conversation
Combe isn't alone in this exploration. Kobi Coker, a 27-year-old comedian and educator, found himself unintentionally reviewing what he calls "gentrified" spaces after noticing new, upmarket establishments opening on his cycling route to work.
"They've always got a queue outside," Coker observed, which left him wondering: "What makes this place so popular?"
His review of the Dusty Knuckle bakery set him back £17.30—a cost he revealed to his audience with a sound effect of glass shattering—though he described their egg and bacon hot cross buns as "absolutely sensational." Despite the price, he encouraged followers to visit, citing the company's work with at-risk young people in the area.
The Gentrification Dilemma: New Ideas Versus Exclusion
On the complex issue of gentrification, Coker expressed mixed feelings. "One half of me feels it's good that we're getting a new influx of things—some new people to bring new ideas," he said. "But the problem is that people that made the community what it is aren't necessarily able to participate in it."
Matthew Roberts, operations manager at Jolene, has welcomed the attention their bakeries have received. "It's all very positive. It's really nice for people to be talking about us," he said, adding in good spirit: "Even if we don't necessarily measure up to Greggs in everyone's view."
Roberts cautioned that conversations around gentrification could flatten businesses operating on vastly different scales. The Dusty Knuckle is a social enterprise with two sites, while Jolene is an independent bakery and restaurant that has expanded to four locations across London. Both compete with national chains like Gail's, Pret, and Greggs that have hundreds of outlets across the UK.
"I would hate to think our space is seen as exclusive in any way, because that's really not how we see ourselves," Roberts emphasized. "We really do want to welcome absolutely everybody."
Quality Versus Affordability: The Price Debate
Harry Davies from De Beauvoir Deli acknowledged the videos were very funny, though they hadn't led to a noticeable surge in customers. He defended their pricing against comparisons to supermarket meal deals.
"We take a lot of pride in our sustainability, using good ingredients and paying people properly," Davies explained. "We're a London living wage employer, and we use free-range meat in our sandwiches."
Davies added that the deli attracts a broad mix of customers, countering assumptions that it's exclusively frequented by wealthy residents. "People assume it's full of people with £3m houses, but that's not the case," he said. "Everyone likes nice food."
Exploring Diversity Through Food Reviews
For 27-year-old content creator Daniel Poon, reviewing local businesses he wouldn't normally visit is about cultural exploration. Growing up in Woolwich with many African friends but never trying African food inspired his viral format of stopping strangers for recommendations.
This approach has led him to neighborhood staples, hidden gems, and more upmarket cafes like Farmer J and Blank Street. He sometimes reviews mainstream chains when they release viral products drawn from other cuisines, such as Pret's ube drink, which he felt didn't authentically capture the original Filipino flavor.
Poon noted that chains often "try to make it very western," adapting products to their core customer base rather than the communities they borrowed from. Still, he appreciates their efforts to branch out.
"I actually quite like that people try different cuisines," Poon said. "I think it shows that they're open, and London is all about diversity."
As these TikTok reviews continue to gain traction, they're revealing deeper questions about London's changing identity, who gets to shape its culinary scene, and whether the city's celebrated diversity extends to who can afford to enjoy its trending food destinations.
