British mountaineer Kenton Cool has scaled Mount Everest for the 20th time, breaking his own record for the most ascents of the world's highest peak by a non-Sherpa guide. The 52-year-old from southwest England reached the summit on Friday and flew back to Kathmandu on Sunday.
Cool, one of the most accomplished mountain guides on Everest, told reporters he is not ready to stop yet. 'Maybe another two or three more times,' he said, despite having indicated last year that he might only climb Everest once more before switching to smaller peaks.
This year's climbing season saw a record number of ascents on a single day, with 274 climbers reaching the summit on Wednesday. The surge was partly due to a dangerous serac hanging over the route, which forced climbers to use a narrow weather window. Cool reported no issues with crowds, saying he had a 'great summit'.
Nepal issued permits to 494 climbers, each accompanied by a Sherpa guide. Record-setting guide Kami Rita Sherpa suggested limiting numbers due to overcrowding, but Cool disagreed. He argued that the focus should be on the experience and knowledge of climbers, and that companies should be more diligent in selecting whom they take.
Nepal's mountaineering authorities are considering new regulations requiring climbers to demonstrate prior experience, but currently only the $15,000 permit fee is required. The northern route from Tibet remains closed this year.