Nirmal Purja was leading an expedition of 10 climbers on Broad Peak, the world's 12th highest mountain, when an avalanche struck at about midday on Thursday. Elite Exped, the company co-founded by the Nepalese climber, has confirmed he was killed in the incident.
Following search efforts, Elite Exped confirmed that other members of the expedition also did not survive, including Purja's trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa.
Elite Exped's statement
In a post shared on Instagram, the company said: "Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja, tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak. We have also received confirmation that other members of this expedition sadly did not survive."
"Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy including his trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa. Our deepest thoughts, prayers and heartfelt condolences are with their families, friends and loved ones. No words can erase the pain of this unimaginable loss, and we ask that everyone respects their privacy as they grieve."
Tributes from Bear Grylls and Spencer Matthews
British adventurer Bear Grylls paid tribute to Purja, writing on Instagram: "Heartbreaking news for so many climbers around the world who had a relationship with this remarkable and unique man. We will never forget you Nims and your unstoppable spirit."
Earlier on Saturday, former Made in Chelsea star Spencer Matthews said he was praying "for a miracle" as he shared a photo with the mountaineer on Instagram. Matthews, who had enlisted Purja to help recover the body of his brother Michael – the youngest Briton to summit Everest, who disappeared on the mountain in 1999 – described the news from Broad Peak as "heartbreaking". Their efforts were captured in the documentary Finding Michael, which was released in 2023.
In the post, the 37-year-old wrote: "The mountains inspire us with their beauty but they also demand immense respect. Every person who ventures into that world understands the risks, yet they go anyway, driven by curiosity, purpose, passion and a deep love for the places few will ever experience."
"The news from Broad Peak is heartbreaking. So many lives, families, friends and teammates now facing unimaginable loss. Our thoughts are with everyone affected by this tragedy. May those who have been lost be remembered not only for how they died, but for how they lived, the courage they showed, and the lived they touched. Rest in peace. To those not yet found, we pray for a miracle."
A record-breaking career
Purja rose to prominence in 2019 when he climbed all 14 of the world's mountains with peaks above 8,000 metres in 189 days, smashing the previous record by more than seven years. The challenge was documented in the Netflix film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.
The 43-year-old cold weather warfare specialist started with Annapurna on April 23 2019, taking in Everest in May and K2 in July. He served in the British military for 16 years, ten of which were spent in the special forces, and was awarded an MBE by the late Queen in 2018 for his achievement in extreme high-altitude mountaineering.
Purja was the first Gurkha to climb Everest while serving in the British military. In 2016, he broke mountaineering conventions to rescue a climber left in the "Everest death zone", bringing her to safety alone.
