Chefs and restaurateurs who earned Michelin's green star for sustainable practices have expressed disappointment following the guide's decision to retire the award. The green star, introduced in 2020 to recognize eco-friendly cooking and waste reduction, will be phased out by the end of the year, and restaurants will no longer be able to advertise that they hold it.
Disappointment Among Winners
Piers Milburn, owner of Pythouse Kitchen Garden in Wiltshire, which won a green star last year, said, "It's disappointing – one of our dreams was to have one." He criticized Michelin for building a platform for businesses to thrive from the accolade and then abruptly removing it. "We were enormously proud of it and now we feel let down by them," he added. Milburn's menu features sustainable ingredients such as English fava beans, hand-dived scallops, and local blackberries.
Hylton Espey, owner of Culture restaurant in Falmouth, Cornwall, which serves fish from the local market and mushrooms grown in a nearby no-dig garden, noted that he had no communication about the changes until after the press release. "We feel that this could have been handled better," he said. The star was a "rare achievement and it helped us stand out amongst other restaurants on an international scale," including collaborations with chefs from the US and appearances at international events.
Cecily Fearnley, owner of Homestead Kitchen Garden in North Yorkshire, also expressed disappointment. Her restaurant, run from a family farmhouse on the moors, serves home-grown vegetables and locally distilled gin. "The fact we were recognised by Michelin was a fantastic boost for us, and definitely led people to us who care about the same things," she said. Despite losing the star, she added, "For us, we will continue to work on what we feel passionate about."
Replacement with Mindful Voices
Instead of the green star, the Michelin Guide will launch Mindful Voices, a global editorial platform highlighting sustainable restaurants and pioneers in gastronomy, hospitality, and wine. However, Mindful Voices will not bestow any official accolade, and restaurants do not view it as a replacement. The guide has not provided a reason for phasing out the stars, but all 37 current holders will lose the award at the end of the year.
Milburn speculated that the green star too closely resembled a traditional Michelin star, causing confusion. "In all fairness, there was a bit of confusion about the green star. People would turn up and say: 'We heard you have a Michelin star,'" he said. "From the outset the branding for the star wasn't right – it looks too much like a Michelin star."
Reactions and Reflections
Jan Ostle, head chef and co-owner of Wilsons in Bristol, which serves produce from its market garden, was incredibly proud of her green star. "My heart also goes out to the people who won green stars this year. For it to be retired the very same year seems unfair," she said. However, she hoped the change reflected that sustainable menus have become the norm. "Practices such as working closely with local growers, reducing waste, improving staff culture and thinking more carefully about sourcing should really just be part of what defines a good modern restaurant," she added.
A spokesperson for the Michelin Guide said: "The Michelin Guide wishes to reaffirm clearly its commitment to a more responsible approach to gastronomy. The Guide's ambition is evolving towards a broader and more universal expression, one that now encompasses our three pillars of excellence: gastronomy, hospitality and wine. In the context of a strong international expansion to more than 60 destinations, the introduction of Mindful Voices should not be seen as a step backwards, but rather as a progression designed to reinforce this commitment."
