If your eyeshadow seems to vanish the moment you open your eyes, or your eyeliner looks heavy or disjointed, you likely have hooded eyes. The good news is that with a few clever make-up tweaks, this eye shape can look lifted and bright. According to New York-based make-up artist Laura Geller, 'it is all about adjusting your placement and technique to work with your eye shape, not against it.' Here is how to master eye make-up for hooded eyes, according to an expert.
What Are Hooded Eyes?
Geller explains that hooded eyes occur when the eyelid has less visible space because the skin folds over the crease. This natural eye shape can become more pronounced with age as the eyelid skin loses elasticity. The main challenge is that it can make eyeshadow disappear and liner look heavier than intended. That is why technique matters more than product.
Get the Eyeshadow Placement Right
For hooded eyes, where you place your shadow is far more important than how much you use. Geller recommends applying a slightly deeper shadow just above your natural crease, so the colour stays visible when your eyes are open. Think of this as subtly creating a new crease that sits slightly higher than your natural fold. She suggests keeping tones neutral and wearable, leaning into earthy tones like taupes and browns to add depth without overwhelming the eye area. Blending upwards rather than outwards is also key to creating lift.
Keep Your Eyeliner Understated
Heavy liner can overwhelm hooded eyes, so keeping it pared back is essential. Geller advises a tight line along the upper lash line following the natural shape of your eye. This brings back definition without taking up too much lid space. Thick, graphic liners and shapes like the feline flick can draw the eye down, making the area appear older. Instead, opt for a soft brown pencil. For an extra brightening trick, she suggests using a beige liner on the lower waterline, which instantly brightens and makes the eyes look bigger and more refreshed.
Focus on Lift, Not Drama
If your goal is bigger-looking eyes, piling on eyeshadow or liner is not the answer and can often have the opposite effect. Geller recommends focusing on what she calls the '3 Es': eyeliner, eyelashes, and eyebrows. Fill in your brows to frame the face, add a tight line of liner along the upper lashes for definition, and finish with mascara to open everything up. The overall effect should feel lifted, effortless, and minimal. Keep your shadow placement slightly above the crease and focus on upward blending. A touch of brightness on the waterline or inner corner can make the entire eye area look more awake in seconds.
Go for Matte Over Shimmer
When it comes to formulas, there are no hard rules. Geller uses a mix, noting that matte shades are great for creating shape and definition, especially just above the crease and at the base of the eyelid. Shimmer is not off-limits but should be used carefully, as it can emphasise texture on eyelids, highlighting wrinkles and creases. She recommends keeping shimmer light, perhaps only on the inner corner to open the eye.
