We have officially become a nation of hummus enthusiasts. Earlier this year, the Middle Eastern chickpea dip was added to the Office for National Statistics' inflation basket, an annual update reflecting our shopping habits. I purchase it regularly (always the smooth variety) and frequently prepare it at home. It is remarkably easy to make, and there is a wonderful recipe from Turkish food writer Özlem Warren on page 28.
If you enjoy hummus, you should certainly try fava as well. Anyone who has vacationed in Greece may be familiar with this humble mezze. It is particularly renowned on Santorini, where the dried peas are cultivated in volcanic soil and prized for their earthy flavour. Elsewhere, fava is typically made with yellow split peas and serves as a perfect evening snack accompanied by toasted pitta and chilled white wine. Think of it as a slightly sweeter and more mellow alternative to hummus.
Yellow split peas are a dried pulse that, like chickpeas, are high in fibre and plant-based protein. They generally do not require pre-soaking, though I have encountered a few stubborn batches recently that refused to soften. I now check best before dates when purchasing—dried pulses toughen with age—and ideally soak them for a couple of hours before cooking.
Method
Rinse the split peas and soak for one to two hours.
In a large saucepan, cover the split peas with water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, skimming off any scum, or until the peas are soft.
Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Halve and slice the onions, and slice the garlic. Fry with ½ teaspoon of salt for 20 to 25 minutes until caramelised.
Drain the softened peas and reserve the cooking liquor. In a blender, combine the peas, two-thirds of the onion and garlic mixture, the juice of half a lemon, 100ml of the reserved cooking liquor, and another tablespoon of oil. Blend to the consistency of loose hummus, adding more liquor if necessary. Adjust seasoning with additional salt and lemon juice to taste.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl (it is best served warm) and spoon the remaining caramelised onions over the top. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with paprika, and garnish with a few capers. Serve with pitta, flatbread, or crudités.
