The Art of Chopping Chives: A Culinary Status Symbol
In the high-stakes world of professional kitchens, perfectly chopped chives have emerged as an unlikely status symbol for chefs. This delicate herb, often used as a garnish, can make or break a dish's presentation and flavour. The pursuit of immaculate chives has even spawned a viral Instagram phenomenon, Rate My Chives, which rates submissions from chefs and home cooks worldwide with the precision of a competitive sport.
The Rise of Rate My Chives
Rate My Chives, founded in 2022 by a UK-based chef, has amassed over 93,000 followers, including culinary luminaries like Grant Achatz of Alinea in Chicago and Australia's Mark Best. The account's anonymous creator started it after noticing poorly cut chives at a restaurant, viewing them as a harbinger of subpar meals. "If the chefs don't care about the little things like how to chop chives, then the rest of the food's going to be crap as well," he explains, though he notes this philosophy primarily applies to top-end establishments.
For many chefs, mastering chive chopping is akin to a musician learning scales—a foundational skill in Western cookery. Chef Trisha Greentree, executive chef at Sydney's Fratelli Paradiso, emphasises that perfect chives are "not so much about showing off your chops ... but more about showing you care." In restaurants, these finely sliced herbs adorn dishes like oysters, tartare, and gougères, adding a light, herbaceous pop that enhances both texture and taste.
The Criteria for Perfection
According to Rate My Chives, scoring is based on consistency and thinness. Chives must be uniformly sliced, with thinner cuts indicating superior knife skills. Bruised or unevenly chopped chives receive lower scores, as they can result in an unpleasant mouthfeel. The founder stresses the importance of a razor-sharp knife: "If you've just got a medium sharp knife, there's going to be pressure going on to the chive, which is then going to crush it."
Chef Derek Kim, formerly of the now-closed Sydney fine-dining restaurant Tetsuya's, recalls how chives were a key component of their signature confit of ocean trout. The kitchen would use 10 large bundles per service, with strict criteria: uniform length and thickness, clean cuts, and no green staining on the chopping board, which indicates mishandling.
A Personal Journey to Improvement
In an attempt to master this skill, one writer embarked on a chive-chopping journey under Greentree's guidance. Struggling with weak wrists and a blunt knife, the initial results were dismal—producing "train tracks" and warped diamonds instead of perfect circles. After submitting a photo to Rate My Chives, the score was a blunt two out of 10, with criticism pointed at uneven slices and long tails.
Undeterred, the writer sharpened their knives, practised locking their wrist, and incorporated chives into daily meals. Despite improvements, a second submission only raised the score to 2.3, highlighting the rigorous standards of the online community.
The Cultural Impact of Chive Chopping
Rate My Chives has created a unique online space, oscillating between a gladiator arena for harsh critiques and an encouraging platform for apprentices. Some chefs, like Cliff Lyijynen, the first to receive a perfect 10 in 2023, proudly display their scores as badges of honour. Lyijynen, a Finnish-Singaporean chef based in Helsinki, was "proud and elated" by his achievement, though he notes that chive-chopping prowess doesn't necessarily equate to overall culinary skill, especially in Asian cooking traditions.
Ultimately, the pursuit of perfect chives represents more than just a technical challenge; it's a metaphor for mindfulness and self-improvement in the kitchen. As chefs and home cooks alike strive for that elusive 10, they're reminded that even the smallest details can elevate a meal from ordinary to extraordinary.
