An award-winning fish and chip shop owner has warned that cod, the nation's favourite menu item, could disappear from UK menus as costs soar and stocks decline. Cos Michael, a third-generation chip shop owner from Manchester, has been in the trade since age 11 and now runs Pisces Fish Bar in Heswall, Wirral.
Perfect Storm of Pressures
Cos Michael said cod is at a critical point due to a perfect storm of economic, environmental, and geopolitical pressures. Severely limited fishing quotas from overfishing, increased fuel and transport costs driven by the war in Ukraine and Middle East tensions, and international sanctions on Russian seafood have disrupted the global supply chain, causing cod prices to soar.
Andrew Crook, president of the National Federation of Fish Fryers, has previously told the BBC that there is now only a quarter of the cod available globally compared to six years ago, meaning everybody is fighting for the same fish.
Family Legacy at Stake
Cos Michael is a third-generation shop owner. His Cypriot grandfather, also named Cos Michael but known as Mike, founded Michael's Fast Food after settling on the Wirral in Merseyside. Now under Cos's stewardship, Pisces Fish Bar recently received national recognition at the inaugural English edition of The Fish and Chip Awards.
Cos said: “Cod is at a critical point. It's one of the biggest challenges facing the fish and chip industry, and it's something every shop has to take seriously. Sustainability has to come first if we want future generations to enjoy the same product.”
Balancing Quality and Affordability
Cos added that the issue isn't just one thing, but the result is that sourcing high-quality cod has become significantly more expensive. He said: “People still want cod, but they also expect value for money. With household budgets under pressure, customers are being more selective about where they spend their money, so when they treat themselves they want the very best.”
Because his family name has been in the industry for so long, Cos has a good relationship with trusted suppliers and fishing boats. However, he believes cod will become more limited over time unless stocks recover. The industry must strike a balance between protecting the species and keeping fish and chips affordable for customers.
Possible Disappearance from Menus
Cos warned: “People only want to pay a certain price and when it isn’t that price, takeaways and restaurants are selling at a loss so it could be wiped from menus in the country if it continues.” At Pisces, a small Atlantic Prime Cod and Chips costs £9.20, and a large is £13.00.
