While visiting London in the 1960s, Sophia Loren had her favourite pasta, spaghetti alla napoletana, either flown in from Italy or prepared by chefs in the kitchen at The Savoy. It’s a simple dish, with a sauce made from olive oil, tomatoes, garlic and basil. But pasta had yet to “take-off” in Britain — Lloyd Grossman was a long way from cashing in. So it was the Italian chefs (my nonna’s brother among them) at The Savoy who flew the tricolore flag.
A Timeless Haven
Years on and the hotel still has it, still lures the well-heeled and the glamorous to its marble foyer. London is replete with luxury today — and, fine, there are cooler hangouts — but I dare say Loren would still choose the old-timer on the Strand, not only for pasta but for a friendly glass of wine and a little jazz. It’s the history of the place. It’s the tradition, the service. There are few arenas better suited for a romantic evening, better yet if you can fork out for a room. England might need to win the World Cup for that.
American Bar and 1890 Restaurant
Begin at the American Bar with its background piano and lavish cocktails. Have a classic like a manhattan or a negroni. These are to be enjoyed on plush seating and among people who have travelled especially to experience a storied room. It’s still somewhere people go for an occasion, not merely full of people for whom nights out such as these are par for the course. I guess this might be galling for the social set, but there’s something quite lovely about people feeling special.
Then walk through to 1890, Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin-starred restaurant. I remember supposing it would quickly win a star at the preview dinner. Hey ho, it has, and there’s a four-course menu at £100 per head, featuring such marvels as a generous Orkney scallop with courgettes and lemon verbena and Suffolk lamb cooked a la francaise. All this, in the splendid opulence of one of London’s grand old dames. If you can’t take a date, take Loren.
Strand, London WC2R 0EZ, thesavoylondon.com
Bar Snacks: Coqodaq and Coyo Taco
Those who’ve been to New York in recent years or watched Knife Edge: Chasing Michelin Stars on Netflix will know of Coqodac. It’s a fancy joint that pairs exceedingly good fried chicken with champagne. It’s all quite complicated and often sour cream and caviar is involved, as it was in takeaway boxes at the US Open last year. The restaurant is popping up at Lucky Cat in Mayfair throughout Wimbledon. The special dish for London? A “golden nugget” topped with caviar, truffle, bluefin tuna tartare and Calabrian chili soy sauce. Ridiculous. And probably delicious.
10 Grosvenor Square, W1K 6JP, gordonramsayrestaurants.com
London continues its love affair with tacos with Coyo, a US import coming to Westminster from Miami. Coyo boasts a treasure trove of celebrity fans — David Beckham, Will Smith, even Barack Obama — and no wonder given the restaurant’s motto is “todo es fresco”, which means everything is made on-site each morning, from the pressed corn tortillas to the smashed guacamole. Fillings meander from spicy prawns to carne asada (grilled steak) and there are plans for a mezcaleria in the basement too. Go at weekends to avoid MPs.
2 Orchard Place, SW1H 0BF, coyotaco.co.uk
