Punk Royale, a Swedish import promising a rowdy, immersive 20-course fine-dining experience, has landed in Mayfair. But according to a recent review, the reality falls far short of the hype. The dining room is described as shoddily decorated and fusty-smelling, resembling a student house in need of a clean. The 'punk' antics, such as serving caviar bumps on diners' hands and forcing them to lick remoulade off plates while blasting explicit music, are more clumsy than playful.
The food itself is served at breakneck speed, often on plastic takeaway lids or in syringes, with minimal cutlery. Highlights are few: a lobster, truffle and kohlrabi slop was shoved into the reviewer's mouth without warning, and a coffee semifreddo provided a brief moment of refuge. However, most dishes lack flavour, including unseasoned tofu nuggets and a jelly-like cube. The non-alcoholic wine flight is described as thick, soupy and vegetal.
At £220 per head (including drinks), the experience is deemed not worth the price. The reviewer criticises the trend of charging high prices for mediocre food under the guise of 'immersive' dining, noting that London already has superior options like Punchdrunk and Secret Cinema. The only truly rankling aspect is the confiscation of phones, which the reviewer suggests is to hide the lack of substance from Instagram scrutiny.
