The babydoll dress has become one of the most talked-about fashion items this spring, with celebrities like Olivia Rodrigo and Alexa Chung championing the style. However, the trend has also ignited fierce online debates, with critics accusing wearers of infantilising themselves or sexualising children's clothing. Supporters argue that women should be free to wear what they choose without being shamed.
The Rise of the Babydoll Dress
Olivia Rodrigo, the Grammy-winning pop star, has been spotted in various babydoll dresses, including a floral version at a concert in Barcelona and a pale pink custom piece in Los Angeles. Her embrace of the style has drawn both praise and criticism. One X user questioned, "Can Olivia Rodrigo dress like a normal pop star and stop trying to dress up like a toddler?" Another commented, "I will never get people dressing like a baby."
But the babydoll dress has a rich history that predates Rodrigo. It first gained popularity during World War II due to material shortages, offering a fresh take on femininity. Fashion historian Daniel Milford-Cottam explains that in the 1960s, young women rejected looking like miniature versions of their mothers, leading designers like Mary Quant to create youthful, short dresses. "Quant was designing clothing for women that was intentionally based on not just children's clothes, but baby clothing," he says.
The Kinderwhore Connection
Rodrigo's style draws inspiration from 1990s rock icons like Courtney Love, who popularised the "Kinderwhore" aesthetic. This look used babydoll dresses to satirise traditional femininity, often wearing torn or oversized versions. Rock music researcher Dr James How notes, "Rodrigo is engaging with these great 1990s rock stars, but I don't think she's playing with the meanings that they were. She looks really good – that's the difference."
The backlash against Rodrigo mirrors earlier criticisms of Quant's designs. Milford-Cottam recalls that short skirts were accused of encouraging sexual assault, a claim Quant dismissed by highlighting the layers women wore underneath. "This dress-and-bloomers look was directly based on clothing that little girls had traditionally worn since the 1920s," he adds.
Modern Interpretations and Backlash
Today, the babydoll dress appears on runways at Valentino, Loewe, and Chloé, and is favoured by fashion icons like Elle Fanning. Rodrigo has stated she values comfort, telling British Vogue, "I want it all to feel fun and laidback." Milford-Cottam sees a parallel with 1960s women who appreciated the freedom of movement in short dresses. "There does seem to be a very strong element here about wanting to shame women for wanting to be active and move around freely," he reflects.
Supporters of the trend point out that blaming women for how others perceive them is misplaced. One Instagram user asked, "Shouldn't the shame be put on the predators who see a grown woman wearing a dress and sexualise it?" Dr How agrees, saying, "People don't allow artists, especially women, the freedom to express themselves. It’s horrible that people aren’t allowing her to express herself."
Ultimately, the babydoll dress remains a divisive choice, but its enduring popularity suggests it will continue to spark conversation. As Milford-Cottam concludes, "There seems to be a lot of bitterness and venom aimed towards a young woman who wants to wear clothing that allows her to move around – and that she clearly feels comfortable in."
