Conner Ives Revives French Twist as Sleek New Updo Trend
The Parisian updo known as the French twist made a decisive and glamorous return at London Fashion Week, reimagined with a sleek, modern touch that signals a shift from the slicked-back bun. Among the various Noughties nostalgia-inspired beauty looks showcased, Conner Ives's autumn/winter 2026 show stood out for its revival of this classic hairstyle, reworked into a sculpted, glass-like shine that feels poised for a major commercial comeback.
Glamour Through the Ages
Led by Claire Grech, lead stylist and Bumble and bumble advocate, the hair direction for the show channelled what she described as "glamour through the ages." This vision blended old Hollywood bobs with Seventies and Eighties bouncy curls, alongside subtle nods to the Nineties, creating a diverse range of finishes that reflected Ives's varied clothing silhouettes.
"The look's really classic, really chic," Grech told the Press Association backstage, "but then we've got this kind of snatched moment around the front where it brings it into the modern world." This play between past and present was most clearly expressed through the hero style of the sleek French twist, defined by a deep side parting positioned closer to the ear and an ultra-gloss finish that felt smart and precise.
Modern Execution with Vintage Elegance
While the structure of the French twist nodded to vintage elegance, the execution was distinctly contemporary. The hair was smoothed to a glass-like sheen, with every strand disciplined into place, creating a tightly controlled yet full shape that sat neatly at the back of the head. The finishing look was lacquered and sculptural, with select models featuring feathers inserted through the centre of the twist—a high-glamour detail that echoed the texture in Ives's clothing, similar to accents seen in the Chet Lo show.
The collaboration between Grech and Ives was rooted in shared references, with mood boards layered with vintage imagery and behind-the-scenes photographs capturing women mid-movement or "caught in an era," rather than overt celebrity inspiration. "Connor is amazing with collaborating. He always brings loads of references to the table. He's always got quite a clear vision of these little moments he wants to have that stem from the clothing and his design process," Grech explained.
Commercial Viability and Everyday Adaptability
Despite its immaculate runway execution, Grech stressed the style's adaptability for everyday life. While the show versions were slick and controlled, she suggested that in casual settings, the French twist could be worn looser or more textured, making it a practical choice. "I do feel like it's coming back," Grech said. "I love the big, bouncy Nineties blow-dry—that Cindy Crawford blowout—but that's a lot of work. Realistically, in everyday life, the French twist is great. You look really done, but actually you can do it quite quickly yourself."
To create the look, key products were essential backstage. Bumble and bumble's high drama styling foam was worked through damp hair to build body and style memory, then spray de mode was used to refine edges and lock in shape, while sumo gel and hair oil enhanced shine and ensured razor-clean partings. The same technique was applied across different hair types, including Afro hair that had been blown out before twisting, demonstrating the look's flexibility and inclusivity.
Complementing Fashion and Timeless Appeal
The hairstyle's clean lines perfectly complemented Ives's richly textured collection, which featured fur coats, embroidery, and embellishment. "There's always this element of classiness to the woman," said Grech. "(The Conner Ives woman) is a classy woman. So I feel like the hair really matches that, because it's just clean, classy." This timeless appeal, combined with modern execution, positions the French twist as a versatile updo that bridges elegance and practicality.
If London Fashion Week backstage was any indication, the French twist is poised to become the next big updo trend for 2026, offering a chic alternative to the slicked-back bun with its blend of vintage charm and contemporary flair.
