The fashion world is in mourning following the death of Valentino Garavani at the age of 93. Passing away on Monday, he is widely regarded as the last surviving great couturier of the 20th century, a man whose name became synonymous with Italian high glamour and timeless elegance.
The Man Who Knew What Women Wanted
Often called 'the last emperor' and 'the Sheik of chic', Valentino's influence was monumental. As former Italian Prime Minister Walter Veltroni once noted, 'In Italy, there is the Pope, and there is Valentino.' His philosophy was elegantly simple: 'I know what women want, they want to be beautiful,' he stated in 2009.
With his lifelong business partner and former lover, Giancarlo Giammetti, he built a multi-million dollar empire. He retired in 2007, stepping away from a runway increasingly dominated by casualwear, to live a life of legendary luxury. This encompassed five spectacular homes, including a London mansion and a French château, and his 152-foot yacht, the TM Blue One, which hosted Hollywood elites like Gwyneth Paltrow and Anne Hathaway.
Dressing Icons: From Jackie O to Princess Diana
Valentino's clientele was a roll-call of the world's most celebrated women, transcending political and social divides. His journey to icon status began in Paris, where he trained before establishing his Rome salon on the Via Condotti in 1959.
One of his earliest triumphs was Elizabeth Taylor in 1960. She wore a white Grecian-style Valentino gown trimmed with ostrich feathers to the 'Spartacus' premiere, creating headlines and forging a lifelong partnership.
He became a cornerstone for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. After President Kennedy's assassination, she ordered six Valentino dresses for her mourning wardrobe. His status was cemented when she chose a Valentino haute couture two-piece for her 1968 marriage to Aristotle Onassis, an image splashed across global front pages.
In the 1990s, Princess Diana turned to Valentino as she carved a new identity beyond the palace walls. Her bold burgundy velvet and lace cocktail dress at a 1992 gala signalled a new, confident era. A striking red Valentino halter-neck dress later featured on the cover of British Vogue in tribute after her death.
Royal Weddings and Red Carpet Triumphs
Valentino was the go-to designer for royal nuptials. In 1995, he created the wedding gown for Crown Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece, a ceremony attended by Queen Elizabeth II. This led to commissions for Queen Máxima of the Netherlands and Princess Madeleine of Sweden.
On the Hollywood stage, Julia Roberts’s choice of a vintage 1992 Valentino black-and-white gown at the 2001 Oscars revived her fashion image and sparked a trend for vintage couture on the red carpet.
Even after his 2008 retirement, his brand's influence endured. In 2017, Melania Trump wore a floral Valentino dress in Paris, a choice her stylist said paid homage to the city's liberation and placed her in a lineage of stylish consorts, from Jackie Kennedy onwards.
The Enduring Legacy of an Emperor
Valentino Garavani’s career defined opulent, feminine glamour for over four decades. From the jet-set splendour of his personal life to the exquisite craftsmanship of his designs, he remained the unwavering epitome of 'la dolce vita'. His death marks the closing of a golden chapter in fashion history, leaving behind a legacy worn by queens, princesses, first ladies, and movie stars—all united by his singular vision of beauty.
