In a blind taste test of 13 parmesan and parmigiano reggiano cheeses available in Australian supermarkets, Nicholas Jordan and a panel of experts determined which wedge has the edge. The test, held at Marani Deli in Sydney, included Tiffany Beer, chair of judges for the Sydney Royal Cheese and Dairy Produce Show; Penny Lawson, professional cheese judge and owner of Penny's Cheese Shop; Fabio Sercecchi, sommelier and wine importer; Lucien Alperstein, microbial ecologist; and Alex Grenouiller, owner of Marani Deli. They rated cheeses based on aroma, texture, and taste.
Best Overall: Colla Parmigiano Reggiano
Scoring 8/10, the Colla Parmigiano Reggiano (200g, $16.99) was praised for its complexity and intensity. Aged for 30 months, it delivers exactly what a parmesan should be: delicious, complex, and intense. The Zanetti Parmigiano Reggiano 30 Mesi (200g, $19) also scored 8/10, noted for its savoury and intense flavour, though slightly less fruity than its 24-month counterpart.
Best Value: Perfect Italiano Parmesan Traditional
With a score of 7/10, Perfect Italiano Parmesan Traditional (200g, $8) offers a cost-effective alternative. While it is not a pure parmesan—blending cheddar-like qualities—it is sufficiently savoury and salty to enhance everyday meals, saving hundreds of dollars annually compared to Italian imports.
Other Notable Cheeses
Thomas Dux Parmigiano Reggiano Over 12 Months (250g, $14.50) scored 6.5/10, described as a brief but pleasant experience. Mil Lel Parmesan (250g, $11) also scored 6.5/10, with unusual fruity and gorgonzola-like aromas. Auricchio Parmigiano Reggiano (200g, $13.99) scored 6.5/10, offering an unextraordinary but still magnificent parmesan experience.
Coles Parmigiano Reggiano (250g, $12.70) scored 6/10, with a decent savoury hit but a metallic aftertaste and a clammy texture, described as "as if it's about to ask someone on a date." Westacre Dairy Parmesan Cheese Block (200g, $6.29) scored 5/10, considered pleasant but not parmesan by the Italian reviewer, who left a solitary "N/A" on their scorecard. Perfect Italiano Parmesan Extra Sharp (200g, $8) also scored 5/10, described as dense, moist, and salty with a bitter aftertaste.
Lowest Rated: Symons Organic Dairy Co Organic Parmesan
The worst performer was Symons Organic Dairy Co Organic Parmesan (150g, $10.50), scoring 3/10. Reviewers described it as having a grassy bitterness, with one professional cheese judge writing: "Horrible. Do not use or eat." It was likened to "toe jam" and deemed unfit for consumption.
According to Jordan, while the most expensive and cheapest parmesan differ in depth and character, they share fundamental components: fat, salt, protein, and umami-producing amino acids, which trigger pleasure responses. He noted that "who am I to deny my own biology?"
The test revealed that exceptionally high prices are a good indicator of deliciousness, but medium-high prices are not. Australian parmesan is perfectly fine but very different from Italian versions. The best parmesan cheeses are those wrapped in paper, as cheese is alive and sweats in plastic.
