V&A Exhibition Explores Schiaparelli's Fashion Legacy and London Influence
A new exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum delves into the revolutionary work of Elsa Schiaparelli, the Italian-born designer who transformed fashion into art. Titled Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, the showcase pairs historic couture with contemporary pieces worn by celebrities like Ariana Grande, Dua Lipa, and Kendall Jenner, tracing a legacy that blurs the lines between design and artistic expression.
From Surrealism to Red Carpet Glamour
Schiaparelli established her Paris couture house in the late 1920s, quickly gaining fame for bold, unconventional designs that challenged traditional dress norms. According to Sonnet Stanfill, the V&A's senior curator of fashion, her work transitioned into art in the mid-1930s through close collaborations with surrealist artist Salvador Dalí. "From 1935, she started working very closely with Dalí," Stanfill explains, "beginning with powder compacts and evolving into iconic garments like the tears dress and skeleton dress." In her autobiography, Schiaparelli described this creative process as "exhilarating."
Unlike contemporaries such as Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli actively integrated artistic collaboration into her identity, working directly with figures like Jean Cocteau and Dalí. Stanfill notes that she even announced these partnerships in press releases, emphasizing her view that dressmaking was an art form. "She was in a different league," Stanfill says, "exchanging ideas and inspiring artists in return."
Schiaparelli's London Operation: Defying Expectations
While Paris served as her avant-garde base, Schiaparelli expanded to London in 1933, opening a Mayfair branch amidst what she called "the most masculine city in the world." Despite initial perceptions, her British clientele proved surprisingly daring. "One might assume British clients weren't as adventurous," Stanfill remarks, "but the clothes reveal vibrant colours, unusual prints, and outrageous designs bought and worn here." The London operation, which ran until 1939, allowed clients to avoid import duties and attend local presentations.
High-profile women, including actress Marlene Dietrich, aviator Amy Johnson, and art collector Maud Russell, were among her "glittering personalities." A standout example is Lady Jane Clark, who wore a Schiaparelli coat with a bare-breasted mermaid button to the 1937 Coronation, epitomizing the brand's bold spirit.
Innovation in Colour, Materials, and Detail
Schiaparelli's silhouettes often aligned with 1930s trends, but her use of colour, materials, and embellishment set her apart. Stanfill highlights her skill as a colourist, citing combinations like beetroot red with salmon pink or a dusty brown evening dress with a bright green feathered capelet. She also pioneered material innovation, experimenting with cellophane, rotophane, and woven glass, and collaborated with embroidery house Lesage to create richly embellished garments.
Revival and Contemporary Relevance
After closing in 1954, the Schiaparelli brand lay dormant until its revival in 2014, now under creative director Daniel Roseberry. Appointed in 2019, Roseberry has adeptly translated the house's history for a modern audience, leveraging social media and red-carpet appearances. "He's not beholden to the history," Stanfill observes, "but uses it as a departure point for contemporary designs." Celebrity moments, such as Ariana Grande's sculptural Oscars gowns in 2025, continue to capture global attention.
Exhibition Overview and Impact
The exhibition, running from March 28 to November 8, features around 200 objects, spanning from the 1920s to today. It is the first major UK exhibition dedicated to Schiaparelli, aiming to celebrate her multifaceted creativity. "It's truly a V&A show," Stanfill concludes, "highlighting fashion, art, and her work with stage and screen. I hope visitors are inspired by the creativity on display."
