British biscuit lovers rejoice: the humble custard cream, a staple of tea-time for over a century, is being given a homemade makeover. According to food writer Felicity Cloake, while the shop-bought versions can be overly sugary and dull, baking them from scratch offers a crispier, more refined treat.
Cloake, in her quest for the perfect recipe, tested several variations from notable bakers including Prue Leith, Regula Ysewijn, and Nigella Lawson. She found that many recipes, such as Alison Niven's rich butter-heavy version, resulted in biscuits too crumbly to be authentic custard creams. Instead, Cloake advocates for a simple dough of butter, sugar, plain flour, egg, and a dash of vanilla extract—omitting the custard powder often used, which she says makes the biscuits softer.
The key to achieving the desired snap, she explains, lies in technique: roll the dough to a thin 3mm, freeze briefly before cutting to maintain shape, and bake until crisp. While Leith recommends a fern-patterned cutter, Cloake humorously admits to using a dog-shaped one when hearts weren't available. The result, she says, is a biscuit that stands alone but truly shines with its sweet filling.
Whether you're a purist or an adventurous baker, Cloake's verdict is clear: homemade custard creams are a revelation—and well worth the effort.
