The UK Government has announced the places shortlisted for the first UK Town of Culture, a new initiative to rebuild local pride. Among 15 destinations across the UK, three are in Scotland, with Leith in Edinburgh being the only Scottish city neighbourhood on the list. Described by VisitScotland as 'one of the world's coolest neighbourhoods', Leith is where opinion writer Alexander Smail has lived for almost five years.
Living in Leith: rising costs and community concerns
Smail notes that while Leith has changed dramatically over the past decade, becoming more expensive as it gains national attention. He had to move to a different part of Leith because his previous flat was out of budget. There is a sense that longtime locals are being pushed out as wealthier people move in, and friends worry they may have to leave.
Despite the drawbacks, Smail acknowledges that Leith deserves its reputation. The area feels like its own town, having been a separate burgh until 1920. He highlights the weekly Saturday market on Dock Place as a highlight, offering local produce and a vibrant atmosphere.
Food, pubs, and shopping in Leith
Leith is known for its seafood, with restaurants like The Ship on The Shore, Heron, Barry Fish, Fishers, and Dulse. Another favourite is Domenico's on Sandport Street for Italian food, and Alby's on Portland Place for 'big hot sandwiches'. Pubs include The Port O' Leith, the Victoria Bar, Teuchter’s Landing, Leith Depot, and Lost in Leith. Smail's current favourite is The Finch, with a laid-back vibe and beer garden.
Shopping also thrives: Smail mentions Settlement Projects, Good Vibes records, and Anything and Everything. He rarely needs to go to central Edinburgh.
Outlook on the award
Smail is not surprised Leith is shortlisted and believes it would deserve the title, but worries that winning could bring even more people and drive up prices further. The winner is set to be announced in 2027.
