Gibellina, a small town in the mountains of western Sicily, has been named Italy's first Capital of Contemporary Art, earning the titles of the country's 'newest art capital' and a 'modern Pompeii' from National Geographic and CNN Travel.
The town was devastated by a powerful earthquake in 1968, which buried much of it under rubble. While the old city was lost, Gibellina Nuova was built seven miles away. The original site, now known as Ruderi di Gibellina (the ruins of Gibellina), remained abandoned until 1985, when an artist-led project covered the ruins in concrete. Completed in 2015, the site has now become a sprawling open-air artwork.
An open-air museum
The concrete old town, named Cretti di Burri, spans 85,000 square metres and has been described as a 'concrete labyrinth' due to its maze-like streets. Today, Gibellina and the surrounding valley host over 5,000 works of art by some of Italy's most renowned contemporary artists, an extraordinary number for a town of around 3,600 residents.
Key attractions include the Stella di Acciaio (star of steel) at the entrance, the Torre Civica (Civic Tower), and the Giardini Segreti (Secret Gardens), all forming an open-air museum.
Culinary delights
As is typical in Italy, Gibellina boasts a thriving food scene, offering local Sicilian specialities such as arancini (rice balls), cannoli, and cassata, a cake made with ricotta cheese and fruit. Recommended eateries include Osteria Floriana and La Massara for seafood, Pastricceria Alba for pastries and traditional cakes, and Food Senza Glutine Gibellina for gluten-free options.
Getting there and when to visit
Sicily is separated from mainland Italy by the Strait of Messina, and reaching the island requires a ferry or a flight to one of its three airports. A controversial plan by Italian PM Giorgia Meloni to build a bridge has not been welcomed by many Sicilians, who are protective of their independence.
From London, a direct flight to Trapani-Birgi Airport (served by Ryanair from Stansted) is the best option, with return flights available for £94 in mid-September. The flight takes about 2 hours and 55 minutes. From the airport, the drive to Gibellina takes 46 minutes, while from Palermo (served by easyJet from Gatwick) it takes 55 minutes.
Gibellina enjoys sunshine year-round, with average daily temperatures ranging from 20°C to 28°C between late April and June. However, Palermo is currently experiencing an unprecedented heatwave, with temperatures around 38°C and 76% humidity, feeling like 39°C. Spring offers cooler conditions (15°C to 24°C), autumn ranges from 18°C to 25°C, and winter hovers between 10°C and 16°C.
