Two Beaches, One Easy Walk
In Pembrokeshire, a short stroll across the Ynys Dinas peninsula connects two beautiful beaches: Cwm yr Eglwys and Pwllgwaelod. The peaceful valley path offers a gentle route between the two, allowing visitors to follow the sun from morning at Cwm yr Eglwys to afternoon rays at Pwllgwaelod.
Route Options
There are two main routes. The direct Valley Walk is a well-maintained, accessible path that is wheelchair- and pushchair-friendly, carved out during the Ice Age. It takes about 30 minutes with only a few small slopes. Alternatively, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path loop around the peninsula offers a longer hike.
According to the article, the AllTrails app features a guided 5.3km walk around Dinas Head that can be followed on a phone. The trail starts by Pwllgwaelod Bay, where there is parking and a popular pub, The Sailors’ Safety.
Cwm yr Eglwys: Sheltered Cove with History
Cwm yr Eglwys is a sandy cove with a stream and rock pools. On the eastern side, a sheltered cove is accessible by walking over rocks at low tide or swimming. Paddleboarding is excellent here due to calm waters and coastal scenery around Dinas Head, including hidden coves, arches, and sea caves.
Above the beach are the ruins of St Brynach’s Church, destroyed by a storm in October 1859, known as the Royal Charter Storm. The area has a paid car park with toilets and a small caravan site. Historically, the village centered on slate quarrying, farming, and herring fishing.
After seeing off a Butlins development in the 1950s, Cwm yr Eglwys retained its charm but still faces challenges with second-home ownership.
Pwllgwaelod: Big-Sky Views and Historic Pub
On the west side, Pwllgwaelod offers big-sky views and afternoon sun. The Sailors’ Safety, an old smuggler's pub dating back to 1593, sits right by the beach. Its menu features local Pembrokeshire seafood with foraged ingredients, and on cooler evenings, a bonfire in the beer garden.
Dinas Head Loop: Longer Hike with Wildlife
The longer Dinas Head route includes steps and steep sections, suited for adults or older children. It follows the coastline, offering views of Newport Bay and the Preseli Hills. Keep an eye out for dolphins and Atlantic grey seals in the waters.
The trail passes Traeth Mawr and Cwm-yr-Eglwys, visiting the church ruins destroyed in the 1859 storm. To return to the car park, follow the path inland along a small woodland edge.
Practical Information
- Location: Ynys Dinas peninsula, near Dinas Cross, north Pembrokeshire.
- Postcodes: Cwm yr Eglwys car park – SA42 0SW; Pwllgwaelod Beach Car Park – SA42 0JN.
- Parking: Both beaches have car parks. Pwllgwaelod is free; Cwm yr Eglwys has a small charge.
- Walking routes: Valley Walk (30 min, accessible) and Dinas Head loop (5.3 km, steep sections).
- Facilities: Toilets at Cwm yr Eglwys car park.
- Dogs: Both beaches are dog-friendly all year round.
For longer stays, Dinas Island campsite is a 10-minute walk from both beaches, with views over Newport Bay.
