The Fishermen's Trail in Portugal's Algarve region offers a long-distance coastal trek through towering rock faces, isolated beaches, and tasty pitstops. The trail, part of the Rota Vicentina, spans 140 miles (226 km) from Lagos to São Torpes in Alentejo. Originally carved out by fishers to reach remote fishing spots, it now attracts hikers seeking the Algarve's wild side.
Starting in Salema: A Quiet Fishing Village
The hike begins in Salema, a fishing village within the Vicentine Coast natural park, about 25 minutes from downtown Lagos. Unlike the bustling tourist hub of Lagos, Salema retains a sedate charm with cobbled streets, traditional blue-and-white fishers' cottages, and family-run restaurants serving fresh seafood. The village's long, empty beach flanked by chalky cliffs offers a serene start to the journey.
After a breakfast of pastéis de nata and bica at Pastelaria Solmar, the hikers set off on a relatively flat, clay-coloured coastal path, following the blue-and-green striped Fishermen's Trail logo toward Sagres. The route is easy to navigate, keeping the sea to the left, with stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean glinting in the summer sun.
Sagres: Surf Breaks and History
The first day's nearly 12-mile hike rewards hikers with serene beaches and minimal crowds. Arriving in Sagres, a seafaring town known for its surf breaks and historical ties to Henry the Navigator, the group stays at Alojamento Mareta, a modest two-bed apartment on a cliffside with sea views (about £78 per night). Dinner consists of piri-piri chicken and local wine at Cafe Conchinha.
According to Luke, one of the hikers, "I'm ready for a Sagres in Sagres," referencing the local beer. The town's scattering of cafes and bars appears unplanned, but offers a relaxed atmosphere away from the tourist crowds.
Cabo de São Vicente: The End of the World
The next morning begins with a meditation session on Mareta beach, followed by a plunge into the icy sea. After a 90-minute yoga session and breakfast at the Laundry Lounge, a boho laundrette-cum-brunch spot, the group heads to Cabo de São Vicente. This 19th-century lighthouse sits on an isolated rocky headland, known as mainland Europe's most southwesterly point, historically called the "end of the world." The Greeks and Romans considered it a sacred promontory.
The hike then cuts inland across arid shrubland, arriving in Vila do Bispo, a dusty, quiet town reminiscent of a spaghetti western. Dinner at Pisco offers vegetarian Mediterranean dishes, sourdough pizzas, and organic wines.
Praia da Pena Furada and Bordeira: Coastal Wonders
On the third day, the trail reaches Praia da Pena Furada, a vast, windswept beach with tall sea stacks battered by waves. The atmosphere is silent except for the hissing sea. Later, the group arrives at Bordeira beach near Carrapateira, a busy spot with Portuguese holidaymakers and surfers. They enjoy a well-deserved burger at Amadobar, a hillside beach bar with low-fi rock music.
Accommodation for the night is at Carrapateira Lodge (about £52 per night), located in a small whitewashed town with restaurants, bars, and surf shops. Dinner at O Pontal includes tender octopus, roasted salt cod, and beef entrecote.
Final Push to Arrifana
The final destination is Arrifana, a parish town in the Aljezur municipality popular with surfers. The hike ends at a postcard-worthy beach with a sprinkling of bars and restaurants. The group watches sunset at Café Restaurante Sol E Mar, a no-frills bar overlooking the beach. The Algarve's west coast, with over 20 million tourists visiting the region last year (5.7 million from the UK), offers a quieter experience away from crowded hotspots.
Luke notes, "No rowdy Britons in sight – except us three." The Fishermen's Trail provides a unique blend of natural beauty, history, and solitude, making it a must-do for hiking enthusiasts.
