Rhayader, a small market town at the crossroads of mid-Wales, has been named by travel journalist Portia Jones as her favourite Welsh market town. She cites its pubs, independent shops, and role as the gateway to the Elan Valley as reasons for repeated visits.
A hub for pubs and local food
Jones, writing for WalesOnline, says the town is 'hugely underrated' and 'worthy of an extended stop while travelling the long A470'. It has long served as a staging post for drovers and travellers on the route from London to Aberystwyth.
For Sunday lunch, she recommends The Crown for 'generous portions of meat and vegetables and Yorkshire pudding'. The Historic Triangle, a 16th-century drover's inn in nearby Cwmdauddwr, offers cask ales and homemade food. The Lamb and Flag and the Elan Hotel are also highlighted for drinks.
The Lost Arc, a community cafe, serves a Welsh rarebit with mature cheddar, Welsh ale, laverbread, and mustard. By night, it becomes a live music venue with pizza nights. The Old Swan Tea Rooms offers homemade pasties and cakes, including a chicken curry from a family recipe. Narrative Coffee has been named among Britain's top coffee stops and earned an Outstanding Achievement at The Welsh Cafe & Bakery Awards.
Independent shops and outdoor gear
The town's compact shopping area includes antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing, and souvenirs. Hafod Hardware, open since 1895, sells vintage-style tourism prints, Elan Valley mugs, and chocolate bars. Quillies offers pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass. No8 Clothing stocks brands including Joules, Brakeburn, Seasalt, and Jellycat.
River Wood is described as the UK's only gallery-bookshop dedicated solely to wildlife and wild places, with a working artist's studio upstairs. Hill Walking supplies outdoor gear from brands like Urban Road, Game, Regatta, Trespass, and Craghoppers.
Elan Valley dams and trails
The Elan Valley, built more than 100 years ago to supply water to Birmingham, features four main dams: Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Construction began in 1892. The 13-mile Elan Valley Trail follows the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line and is mostly flat, suitable for cyclists of all abilities. Bikes can be hired from Neil's Wheels or Clive Powell Mountain Bikes.
More than 80% of the valley is a site of special scientific interest. Wildlife includes red kites, buzzards, and peregrine falcons. Gigrin Farm, half a mile from Rhayader, is famous for red kite feeding.
Dark Sky Park status
The Elan Valley achieved International Dark Sky Park status in 2015, becoming the first privately owned, publicly accessible park in the world to do so. It has 45,000 acres of protected land and is recognised as a top stargazing destination. The Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales host guided tours and workshops.
