While many recommend Tenby for a seaside break, one journalist is enchanted by Porthmadog, a charming harbour town with walking trails, a microbrewery, and an epic steam train ride. Known locally as 'Port', this large tourist town lies on the edge of the Eryri National Park and the estuary of the Afon Glaslyn as it flows into Tremadog Bay.
A town with a rich history
Porthmadog is one of the newest towns in Wales, created in 1810-11. Founder William Madocks built a sea wall, the Cob, in 1811 to reclaim land for agriculture, creating a new natural harbour. Quarry companies soon followed, transporting slate from Ffestiniog to quays along the Afon Dwyryd, then boated to Porthmadog for large ships. Shipments of slate peaked in 1849 at 142,080 tonnes.
Today, it's a popular holiday hotspot, drawing visitors for vintage railway rides, proper pubs, and Blackrock Sands. One of the main attractions is the Ffestiniog Railway, established in 1832 – the world's oldest narrow-gauge railway.
Riding the Ffestiniog Railway
There are several routes, including the Gelert Explorer, the Harbourmaster, and the Woodland Wanderer. The Mountain Spirit service takes you the full length of the railway to Blaenau Ffestiniog twice daily. The journalist booked the Gold Service, travelling in First Class Pullman carriages, hand-built at Boston Lodge workshops, giving 'Murder on the Orient Express' vibes. The Observation Bay at the end of the train offers the best views.
The journey passes through woodlands, the station at Tan-y-Bwlch, and Llyn Ystradau reservoir, ending at the slate tips of Blaenau Ffestiniog, where there's a 50-minute pause for lunch.
Exploring Porthmadog
The harbour is popular for crabbing, with essentials sold nearby. The Maritime Museum, in the last remaining slate shed, offers maritime artefacts. The Tafarn Pencei pub serves pints and homemade fish and chips. High Street is lined with shops, including Siop Fawr Portmeirion, thought to be the oldest department store in north Wales. The Big Rock Café offers pizzas and sourdough.
Purple Moose Brewery and pubs
The town is home to Purple Moose Brewery, a 40-barrel microbrewery started in 2005, which has won awards including gold in the CAMRA Champion Beer of Britain. The Australia pub, taken over by the brewery in 2017, offers cask, keg, and bottled beers, and home-cooked food. The journalist, not a beer drinker, calls it a favourite pub with a fun quiz night and Sunday lunch.
Walking trails and Black Rock Sands
The 870-mile Wales Coast Path passes through Porthmadog. Popular routes include walks to Criccieth and Harlech, and along the Cob for birdlife. Traeth y Graig Ddu, or Black Rock Sands, is a golden beach with a two-mile dune system, designated an area of special scientific interest. Visitors can drive onto the sand, but must park above the high water mark to avoid being submerged or stuck in soft sand.
Portmeirion village
Two miles from town, Portmeirion is an Italian-style village created by architect Clough Williams-Ellis, described as 'a home for fallen buildings'. It features hotels, cottages, a spa, shops, and a gelateria. It's famous as the filming location for The Prisoner. Accommodation options include Hotel Portmeirion, Castell Deudraeth, Village Rooms, and self-catering cottages.
