Just a short bus ride from Gothenburg, Sweden's second city, lies a labyrinth of more than 260,000 islands, according to the national mapping office. Only around 1,000 are inhabited, but the northern Gothenburg archipelago offers a compact cluster where visitors can paddle through bioluminescent seas, scramble over boulders, and discover a rich cultural history.
One unforgettable experience is kayaking at dusk, when the sea flickers with cold blue sparkles triggered by every paddle stroke. A guide points out the hoot of a Eurasian eagle owl, and as darkness falls, the water glows with 'sea fire' – a natural phenomenon that has fascinated locals since childhood.
The newly opened section of the Kuststigen coastal trail snakes through the islands, connecting them via bridges, causeways and ferries. Starting from Hönö, where the Skärgårdshotellet offers a quiet base, walkers can cross to the southernmost island of Fotö, where the path becomes a maze of boulders and lichen-covered rock formations that slow the journey with their fantastical patterns.
A boat trip with a local sailor takes visitors through uninhabited isles to Vinga, the archipelago's farthest outpost. This rocky outcrop was once home to Evert Taube, the renowned Swedish folk balladeer, whose father served as lighthouse keeper there. The connection to music runs deep, with the islands' churches playing a central role in local culture.
Back on Hönö, the Tullhuset restaurant at the harbour mouth offers a view of the Vinga lighthouse. While the islands were once officially dry, smuggling and illicit distillation thrived, and the nearby Moonshine Bay became a gathering place for folk musicians with a rougher edge. Today, the archipelago's natural wonders – from rare wildlife to glowing seas – remain the main attraction.
