Leith, the Edinburgh district once known as the setting for Trainspotting, has been compared to Copenhagen's Nyhavn for its colourful waterfront and vibrant atmosphere. The area has undergone a major makeover over the past three decades, blending its grittier edges with trendy shops, coffee houses and restaurants.
Leith's transformation over 30 years
Hugo Macdonald, owner of Bard, a design shop and gallery on Leith's Customs Wharf, has watched the area develop over the past 30 years. He told Three Magazine: "The grittier aspects and characters are visible and evident still. They are part of Leith's DNA, baked into its bones and blood, and they will never be replaced or pushed out. Leith is like Copenhagen with edges, we always say."
Leith was famously the setting for Irvine Welsh's 1993 novel Trainspotting, which followed a group of friends living in the north Edinburgh suburb. At that time, the area was rundown and beset by social issues. Three decades on, it still faces problems, including persistent homelessness and addiction, but has also enjoyed a significant uplift that has preserved some of its character.
Food, drink and shopping in Leith
Visitors can enjoy avocado feta toast and matcha at Urban Jungle Brunch Room, specialist roasts from the Little Havana Coffee Store, and Korean-style breakfast and pastries at the dog-friendly Old Spence Café. The area is also home to two Michelin-starred restaurants: The Kitchin, serving Scottish-Nordic cuisine, and Heron, known for its tasting menus and non-alcoholic pairing programme.
For shopping, Epitome is a boutique offering hard-to-find Japanese and international designer brands, while Epoca Vintage Clothing Shop is regarded as one of the best thrift stores in Edinburgh.
Attractions and walks
Leith's most famous attraction is The Royal Yacht Britannia, permanently berthed at Ocean Terminal. The former royal yacht, in service from 1954 to 1997, is open to guests who can explore the state apartments, crew's quarters and engine room, with a self-guided audio tour covering the Captain's Bridge and Queen Elizabeth II's favourite room.
Leith Market is held every Saturday, offering fresh local produce, hand-made gifts and other treats, while the Out of the Blue Flea Market sells bric-a-brac and vintage finds. The old harbourfront, lined with pubs and restaurants beneath the Victoria Swing Bridge, is a good spot for a day out, with Argonaut Books, Topping & Company and McNaughtan's Bookshop offering a range of new and old titles.
The Water of Leith Walkway, a 13-mile route from Balerno to the Shore in Leith, winds through Edinburgh and is frequented by herons, kingfishers and otters. The Invisible Cities Walking Tour, hosted by guides affected by homelessness, offers personal insight into Edinburgh's past, present and future.
