Posillipo is one of the more salubrious parts of Naples, the home of emperors, sirens and industrialists alike. Gazing out over that magnificent bay, it’s elevated in every way, far removed from the seethingly glorious cacophony below. But it’s not all Amalfi lemons and stunning sea views. One past resident of particular infamy was Vedius Pollio, a friend of the Emperor Augustus, famed as much for his wanton extravagance as he was for his abject slave abuse. He kept a pool of lampreys – vicious, bloodsucking beasts that squirm straight from the depths of your darkest fears – into which he threw servants for even the most minor of misdemeanours. When one poor soul smashed some exquisite crystal vessel, death by a thousand bites seemed inevitable. Until Augustus intervened. He ordered the ghoulish pool be filled in, the slave freed and, just for good measure, all of Pollio’s glasses shattered, too.
A Tranquil Escape in Faversham
No such drama at Posillipo in Faversham, one of a small chain of Kentish, Neapolitan-ish restaurants. I’m here with my friend Henry Jeffries, wine writer and co-host of our podcast, Intoxicating History, along with his wife, Misti, a food writer. As we sit in the light-drenched conservatory, beneath a verdant (possibly artificial) canopy, we look out over Faversham Creek, and drink an exceptionally well-priced bottle of Pinot Bianco. The menu is large and comfortingly old fashioned, the service warmer than Ischian hot springs.
Delectable Starters and Main Courses
Fried calamari to start, crisp and hot and grease free, with a few added tentacles too. Spaghetti alla vongole has al dente pasta, a good honk of chilli and garlic and a generous scattering of fresh clams. While Henry’s skate slides off its gelatinous bones, drenched in a buttery, lemony, caper-studded sauce. Pizza Vesuvio may not wow the Neapolitan purists (what does?), but with a perky tomato sauce, molten puddles of mozzarella and a crisp, charred base, it’s deeply respectable. ‘The kids love it here, too,’ says Misti as she orders a margarita to take back home for their tea. It’s that sort of place: the kind of local Italian restaurant that is all the better for not banging on about being ‘authentic’. Decent food, lovely staff and something for every whim and pocket.
A Perfect Lunch Before the Festival
We’re supposed to be speaking at the local literary festival later, but the sun has come out and lunch is just getting started. There’s definitely time for one more glass.
About £25 a head. Posillipo, Belvedere Rd, Faversham ME13; posillipo.co.uk
