Rosaleen Fenton took an autumnal Great Western Railway (GWR) trip from London Paddington to St Ives, which was named the UK's prettiest seaside town this week. The visit came as the town quietens after the summer crowds, offering a calmer seaside weekend.
Journey with a mythical feel
The journey west felt mythical, as GWR has revived its Line to Legend Land storybook, a century-old set of promotional travel pamphlets encouraging train travel to scenic regions. It includes South West folklore and a new tale by former Children's Laureate Sir Michael Morpurgo.
The railway installed five life-sized statues of legendary figures across the network. At St Ives station, passengers are greeted by the famous mermaid of Zennor, celebrating the legend of a local chorister lured beneath the waves.
Staying at Tregenna Castle Resort
The weekend base was Tregenna Castle Resort, built in 1774 as a private home and later purchased by GWR as an exclusive hotel. The 72-acre estate includes indoor and outdoor pools, woodland walks, a nine-hole golf course, and courts for tennis, badminton and pickleball.
Dining at the Godrevy View Restaurant, named after the lighthouse said to have inspired Virginia Woolf, featured a tomato salad with Thai basil whipped ricotta (£11) and an 8oz fillet steak with fondant potatoes. Sunday's roast beef came with Yorkshire puddings hiding braised beef in jus.
Overtourism debate in St Ives
The visit came days after Prime Minister Andy Burnham said he favoured a 'tourist tax' for Cornwall. St Ives records more than 220,000 overnight stays annually, potentially bringing in over £1,000,000 a year. Locals noted social issues, including a foodbank and a property market where 15% of homes are second homes.
Jon Hyatt, who chairs Visit Cornwall, said last year he was "against any charge that might put visitors off".
Exploring and returning by sleeper
Attractions included Porthmeor Beach, Smeaton's Pier, and the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. A visit to Tate St Ives featured an exhibition by Halima Cassell, with geometric sculptures playing with light and shadow.
The return to London was on GWR's overnight Night Riviera Sleeper service, with a free hot chocolate from the buffet bar and a fold-away ladder to the top bunk. Arriving just after 5am, breakfast was delivered, including a bacon roll and coffee.
