Henley-on-Thames, a market town on the western bank of the River Thames, is world-famous for its annual Royal Regatta, which draws thousands of visitors each summer. It also serves as a backdrop for several episodes of the hit ITV drama Midsomer Murders, featuring DCI Barnaby.
A Town on Screen and by the River
Fans of Midsomer Murders may recognise Henley's town hall, which appears as Causton court house, and the town's regatta was transformed into Midsomer Regatta in the episode Dead in the Water. The real-life regatta has continued for almost 200 years, bringing crowds to watch rowers compete along the Thames.
For a more relaxed river trip, visitors can cruise with Hobbs of Henley, a family-run business that has been in boating for over 150 years. Away from the water, the high street features independent shops, including Asquiths Teddy Bear Shop, Jonkers rare books dealer, and Gabriel Machin butcher shop, which appears in The Magician's Nephew episode.
Festivals and Local Favourites
Beyond the regatta, the Oxfordshire town hosts Henley Festival, where stars including Sir Elton John, Lulu, Diana Ross, and Tom Jones have performed. Music fans can also attend the Rewind South Festival, while book-lovers visit the Henley Literary Festival.
Locals recommend the deli Pavilion Foods, Gabriel Machin butcher's, The Bell Bookshop, Berries Coffee, The Catherine Wheel, The Bull on Bell Street pub, and Italian restaurant Villa Marina. Rachel Hollinrake, owner of Asquiths Teddy Bear Shop, said Henley is especially lovely in summer and recommended a river cruise with Hobbs of Henley.
History and Resilience
In its early years, Henley was an inland port serving London, with warehouses lining the Thames as malt for breweries in the capital travelled downstream. Medieval Henley grew rich from trade until the Black Death arrived on barges, but the town recovered, with merchants making fortunes from malting. Henley survived the Restoration relatively unscathed despite supporting the Roundheads, and by the 18th century it was a fashionable destination.
The town's fortunes turned when it was bypassed by the new London to Bristol railway line, but enterprising locals started a rowing event, and in 1839 the first regatta was born. It became Henley Royal Regatta in 1851 when Prince Albert was named its first patron. Dr Michael Redley from Henley Archaeological & Historical Group said: "The town has always been very good at absorbing people - that's in its bloodstream - and it's also had to form a new raison d'être for itself. It's always bounced back."
What Locals Say
Philippa Harvey, who has lived in Henley for 28 years, told the Express: "I love the fact that it doesn't really change. It's a very friendly place." She noted Henley comes alive during the regatta but also highlighted the town's festivals and walks along the river and countryside.
Shinaz Fisher-Bailey, 29, a local for 13 years, said she loves the town's location by the River Thames and the surrounding countryside, adding: "It's also very clean and tidy and good for businesses. Small businesses do really well here." Christiaan Jonkers, owner of rare books dealer Jonkers, described Henley as a quintessential market town, saying: "It's popular because it is so unchanged. It's timeless in a traditional sense. A relatively quiet, Thames-side town." Dr Redley added: "Henley is a small market town on a rather spectacular place on the river. You are guaranteed a warm welcome."
Practicalities
Trains from London depart from Paddington Station and take about 50 minutes, with a change at Twyford. It is a short walk from Henley-on-Thames station to the river or Market Place. Regular services from Reading take about 30 minutes, while it is 20 minutes by car. Typical parking prices are between £2.10 and £3.50 for up to three hours, or £6.00 to £11.70 for a full day, with an hour's free parking in town centre car parks. According to Right Move, average house prices over the last year were £775,600, up 1% on the previous year and similar to the peak of £780,544 in 2023, with terraced houses selling for an average £656,419.
