There are certainly worse places to endure a bitingly cold Friday evening than the historic Old Waggon & Horses pub in Newbury. This quintessential, traditional boozer boasts fruit machines, Sky Sports, and a roster of cherished regulars that any great pub would envy. Even better, it holds a licence until 3am, though we did not get to savour those wonderfully extended hours, as we were headed to the nearby Goat On The Roof for dinner. Here, owner Patrick Vaughan-Fowler and head chef Sam May have cultivated a local restaurant that restores one's faith in humanity.
A Warm and Welcoming Ambiance
Stepping inside, away from the winter's harsh chill, the lighting may be subdued, but the atmosphere is positively vibrant. This establishment effortlessly caters to all occasions: it is lively enough for a fun night out with friends, yet retains an understated, seductive charm. Bottles of wine adorn the walls, each offering excellent value and intriguing selections, and I highly recommend entrusting your choice to the knowledgeable owner, Patrick. His expertise is undeniable and greatly enhances the dining experience.
Exquisite Starters to Savour
The 'Skewers to start' feature the Barbed Dart, with quail's egg, radish, mushroom, and smoked tomato, and the Fish Gilda, combining quail's egg and smoked haddock. Both are adorned with a glossy layer of mayonnaise and are utterly divine. The 'Crispbread' leans more towards salty chicken skin than a conventional biscuit, perfect for dragging through a cool, creamy pork tonnato. Additionally, Trealy Farm ham and Winchester cheese croquettes present as four golden spheres of subtle beauty, with shells as crisp and delicate as spun sugar and centres that melt into a delightful, oozing morass.
Main Courses That Impress
A substantial portion of Berkshire pork belly arrives, with the fat expertly rendered and accompanied by curls of brittle crackling. Another standout is the brilliant pheasant schnitzel, served with a sprightly cider sauce rich in butter and lardons. The sides are exceptional: whole carrots slow-cooked in a sweet and sour, tarragon-heavy sauce transform the ordinary into the unforgettable. Similarly, crisp roasted potatoes sit in a sharp tomato sauce, generously slathered with pungent aioli, creating a joyous combination in every bite.
Modern Cooking with Heart
This is clever, generous modern cooking at its finest—never arch or pretentious, but rather elegant, sensual, and unashamedly voluptuous. Occasional cracks or crunches, from roast pig skin, radish, or breadcrumbs, serve as delightful reminders that life is not all about sybaritic softness. For dessert, we indulged in pain perdu with chewy brown-bread ice cream, lingering over brandy afterwards. I had intended to inquire about the origin of the name Goat On The Roof, but the exceptional cooking made it slip my mind entirely.
Expect to pay about £40 per head. Goat On The Roof is located at 1 Bridge Street, Newbury RG14.
Rating: A resounding success, offering a memorable dining experience that combines innovation with comfort.
