For a thrilling night out, head to Newbury, where Goat on the Roof, a wine-led restaurant overlooking the River Kennet, offers a vibrant dining experience. On a wet Tuesday at 6.30pm, the dining room buzzes with chatter and laughter, reminiscent of fin de siècle Paris or Renaissance Venice.
The restaurant is the brainchild of Patrick Vaughan-Fowler, a former sommelier who transformed a former banking hall into a wine bar with a long counter, bistro tables, and walls adorned with paintings of goats. The wine list features around 130 reasonably priced bins, mostly under £100, with knowledgeable staff ready to recommend. A 2021 Se Canta Colombard-Gros Manseng from Côtes de Gascogne, priced at £39, is grassy and fresh.
Chef Sam May focuses on local, seasonal, and foraged ingredients, creating a menu of small and medium plates that travel the world. Standouts include glossy emulsified dressings, a skewer of quail's egg with mushroom and cherry tomato, and another of scallop, salmon, and smoked haddock under a herb sauce. Marmitey crispbreads accompany a spicy 'nduja dip, and fermented vegetables come with wild garlic mayonnaise.
Specials include halibut sashimi with herb oil and grated beetroot and horseradish, allowing diners to mix their own condiment. A savoury doughnut filled with whipped chicken liver parfait is served with sweet-sour rhubarb compote. The cooking is smart and thoughtful, making Goat on the Roof a modern dining delight in Newbury.
