Finnish Lapland, often associated with winter wonderlands and the Northern Lights, reveals a strikingly different character in summer—one that is raw, remote, and surprisingly luxurious. Metro's Video Editor Chris Rickett ventured to Rovaniemi to experience the traditional Finnish cabin culture known as mökki, staying at the newly opened Skýra Retreat, a family-run wellness oasis built around a former 1950s schoolhouse.
What Makes Summer Lapland Unique?
Summer in Lapland brings the midnight sun, where from June 6 to July 7, there is zero darkness. This natural phenomenon disrupts sleep schedules but offers a rare chance to reset the body's internal clock. As Skýra's founder Susanne Hulbekkmo explains, 'It's about resetting. Your body will tell you when it's tired.' The retreat provides blackout curtains, yet many guests find themselves active after midnight, breaking free from societal norms.
However, summer also brings Räkkä—the peak season for biting flies and mosquitoes. While the insects are 'unpleasant but not dangerous,' according to local advice, they do not carry disease. Hulbekkmo recommends a unique mindfulness technique: 'Go to somewhere with a lot of mosquitoes, try to have a net around you, and sit there and just listen to it.'
Skýra Retreat: A Blend of History and Luxury
Skýra Retreat opened at the end of 2025 and has only one winter season under its belt. The property is a protected building, preserving original features like flickering lights and oil heaters. Guests can book suites that were once teachers' chambers or opt for log cabins, dining in the old gymnasium. The design marries Mad Men mid-century style with a Twin Peaks atmosphere.
The retreat offers free transfers from Rovaniemi Airport, a 20-minute drive away. Log Suites are available from £685 per night, including daily wellness sessions, return airport transfers, table-served breakfast, afternoon coffee, access to the Nordic spa, and 24/7 guest services. Bookings can be made at skyraretreat.com or through Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
The Reality of Remote Travel
Despite the allure of off-grid wilderness, some travelers struggle with true immersion. Kelly Forbes, CEO of A'Aru Collective, told the BBC that clients have complained about birds waking them in the Seychelles, villas too close to the ocean in the Maldives, and animals brushing against tents on Kenyan safaris. At Skog Aurora Igloos in Swedish Lapland, a guest noted the silence was so complete it made their ears ring.
Environmental psychologist Dr. Sonja Haustein from the Technical University of Denmark questions the motivation behind such trips: 'Do you really want to travel somewhere remote, or is it really about how you want to see yourself and want to be seen by others? If you're seeking status, maybe there is a more comfortable way to do it than going completely off-grid.'
Practical Tips for Summer Lapland
Finnair operates direct flights from London Heathrow to Helsinki, with up to 28 flights per week, and connections from Manchester and Edinburgh. From Helsinki, flights to Rovaniemi take as little as 40 minutes, with up to six daily flights year-round. Return flights from London to Rovaniemi start at £253 in Economy and £677 in Business Class (Business Class only on the Helsinki leg).
To cope with mosquitoes, visitors are advised to wear light colors, use repellents, and wear netted hats. The cold plunge, a Finnish tradition, is more manageable in summer as a bath tub rather than an ice hole. Hulbekkmo notes that the Finnish Air Force occasionally conducts training overhead, with F-35 fighter jets flying over, but she embraces it as part of the area's history: 'One of the reasons why there was a school in this particular place is because of the army... It's always been here and I hope it will always be here.'
Conclusion: A Fairytale Destination
Despite the insects and constant daylight, Rickett found the experience transformative, echoing a cherished childhood memory of a cabin in the Finnish woods. 'Every bite on my limbs is worth the uninterrupted silence of reading a book to an audience of nothing but tree trunks and creepy-crawlies,' he writes. Skýra Retreat opens for one exclusive weekend from September 18–21, 2026, before hosting its first proper summer season in 2027.
