Caernarfon in Wales is a destination that keeps drawing visitors back, thanks to its magnificent castle, well-preserved walls, and proximity to the Eryri mountains. The town of 10,000 sits across the water from Anglesey and packs a punch despite its modest size.
A Castle That Steals the Show
The star of the show is Caernarfon Castle, one of Europe's great medieval fortresses. Built by Edward I in the 13th century, its polygonal towers and stonework echo the walls of ancient Constantinople, setting it apart from typical round-towered castles elsewhere in Wales. The castle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and dominates any photograph of the town.
Beyond the castle, the town's medieval-era walls remain intact, making them among the best-preserved in Europe. Visitors can walk sections for views over the town and the Menai Strait. The waterfront setting is dramatic, especially at sunset, with the castle silhouetted against the water.
Simple Pleasures and Local Delights
For years, one family made annual summer trips to a cottage in the Snowdonia hills. The cottage had no hot water, so bathing involved a plastic bowl and kettle water. When that proved inadequate, they'd head to the local sailing club for showers. Other activities included treasure hunting at the nearby dump and eating Chinese takeaways atop the outside toilet building, which filled with slugs each night.
Despite such rustic conditions, the beauty of Snowdonia kept them returning. A family favourite was the National Slate Museum, with its slate wagons and splitting demonstrations. No holiday was complete without a trip to Llanberis to take on Snowdon, fueled by a giant breakfast at Pete's Eats.
Heritage and Warmth
Caernarfon's heritage includes a royal connection: Prince Charles was invested as Prince of Wales there in 1969, 700 years after Edward II was born within its walls. The area's mining past is also evident; a century ago, 10,000 tonnes of coal were shipped into Caernarfon Port each year.
For refreshment, the Black Boy pub is one of several cosy options. After a drink, the Welsh Highland Railway offers a narrow-gauge steam ride from Caernarfon into the mountains, providing a breathtaking way to soak up the landscape.
