South Africa grows more than half the world's chenin crop. This versatile grape, often described as the chameleon of the wine world, has a cult following among enthusiasts. My wine consultant friend, Ruth Osborne, frequently wears a cap embroidered with the words 'chenin blanc', showcasing her personal brand. But why does this grape inspire such devotion?
The Chameleon Grape
Chenin blanc shape-shifts with soil and climate perhaps more than any other grape. It is a late-ripening variety with good acidity, lending itself to a whole spectrum of profiles, from dry to sweet. Versatile and aesthetically ambiguous, it is the Tilda Swinton of grapes, as my friend's hat testifies.
With up to 35,000 hectares planted worldwide, chenin is a global grape. However, unlike chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon, it is associated with very defined areas. In South Africa, which grows more than half the world's crop, it ranges from mass-produced to premium terroir-driven wines. France has about a third of the world's chenin vines, over 90% of them in the Loire Valley. Small parcels exist in the US, Australia, and South America, though they may have little in common beyond being white wine.
Loire Valley Contrasts
In the Loire, the appellations of Vouvray and Savennières are just 80 miles apart but produce chenins that are chalk and cheese—or rather, chalk and schist. Savennières is known for bone-dry, mineral, and grapefruit-y wines, while Vouvray offers richer, pear-ish notes and varies dramatically in sweetness. Kermit Lynch describes Vouvray as 'a complete little cosmos of wines ranging from gay to profound.' Marks & Spencer's Clos de Nouys Vouvray (£14, 12.5%) exemplifies the former, while Peter Hahn's Clos de la Meslerie Vouvray Sec is golden quince, mineral, and profound. Catherine and Pierre Breton produce natural wines like La Dilettante Brut sparkling (£21.85 Vinum, 13%).
Beyond the Loire
Some chenins from farther afield have a buttery burgundy character. Stellenbosch producer Villiera's Barrel-Fermented Chenin Blanc is perfect with roast chicken, creamy pasta, or cheese. For South African chenin under £20, major retailers offer many options. The approachably punk wines from Swartland producer Testalonga are excellent: their Baby Bandito Keep on Punching 2024 is round, zippy, and crowd-pleasing.
Five Chenin Blancs Worth a Punt
- Reyneke Organic Chenin Blanc £12 Waitrose, 13.5%. Full, crisp, and peachy, a great everyday summer aperitif.
- Testalonga Baby Bandito Keep on Punching £18.95 Buon Vino, 12%. Fresh, peachy, and guaranteed to please any crowd.
- Villiera Barrel-Fermented Chenin Blanc £20 Ocado, 14.5%. An aromatic, buttery beauty from Stellenbosch.
- Berceau des Fees Savennières 2023 £25 Vinatis, 11.5%. An elegant and perfumed low-intervention savennières.
- Le Clos de la Meslerie Vouvray Sec 2023 £42 Dynamic Vines, 13.5%. The stairway to heaven begins here.
