Chenin blanc, often described as the Tilda Swinton of grapes for its versatility and cult appeal, is a shape-shifter that adapts dramatically to soil and climate. With over 35,000 hectares planted globally, it is a world grape, yet remains closely tied to specific regions—South Africa grows more than half the world's crop, while France accounts for about a third, predominantly in the Loire Valley.
In the Loire, the appellations of Vouvray and Savennières, just 80 miles apart, produce strikingly different wines due to their distinct soils. Savennières is known for bone-dry, mineral and grapefruit notes, while Vouvray offers richer, pear-like flavours and a wide range of sweetness. Wine merchant Kermit Lynch describes Vouvray as 'a complete little cosmos of wines ranging from gay to profound.'
South African chenin blanc runs from mass-produced to premium, terroir-driven examples. The Swartland region's Testalonga winery produces approachable, crowd-pleasing wines like Baby Bandito Keep on Punching. Other recommended bottles include Reyneke Organic Chenin Blanc, Villiera Barrel-Fermented Chenin Blanc, and the Loire's Berceau des Fees Savennières and Le Clos de la Meslerie Vouvray Sec.
