Our resident product tester sips and puckers his way through a range of high-street balsamic vinegars. The old adage that you get what you pay for definitely applies to balsamic vinegar, no matter whether it’s an independent brand or a supermarket’s own-label. The best are made in Modena, Italy, and carry at least IGP (protected geographical indication) status. Though that’s not the strictest certification, it’s still a mark of quality, assuring the product has been made following certain guidelines.
None of the vinegars tested had PDO (protected designation of origin) status, which is a more coveted certification with strict guidelines and a 12-year ageing process, and which explains why it can cost upwards of £1,200 a litre. The products varied from more acidic, young vinegars with a low sweetness, resulting in harsher, less balanced but still delicious vinegar, through to the most syrupy balsamics with a sugar content as high as 80% – a stark contrast to the lowest in the group at 19%.
This invecchiato (aged) vinegar has a medium viscosity and classic, dark cherry-red hues. Acidic and rich on the nose, with a caramelised, fruity flavour. Sweet (51.4% sugar) with a persistent, intense and satisfyingly well-balanced flavour. Amazing value for aged balsamic. A thin vinegar with a deep mahogany colour. Vanilla notes on the nose and, considering it’s so young, pretty well balanced. A noticeable sweetness (19% sugar) and complex flavour profile, with prune and caramel notes and a fizziness that lingers on the tongue.
A high-density, syrupy vinegar with a black-red colour. A complex flavour journey from the lively, uplifting, acidic aroma to the fizz and pop on the tongue and long, complex, prune and woody notes from the mixed barrels; 81% sugar (the highest in the test). A very dark, high-density, aged invecchiato balsamic with deep, red-brown hues. Lively and complex acidic aroma. Sweet (77% sugar) and fizzy on the palate, with a long flavour profile and rich, mixed dried fruits.
Refined in barrique small oak barrels, this thick, deep brown syrup has an underlying bright red tinge. A lively, acidic aroma with notes of wood, apricot and date syrup. Fizzily acidic and very sweet (73% sugar). A high-density vinegar with a lovely, syrupy quality. A cherry-cola colour and funky, acidic aroma. Tart and rich dried fruit flavours, and marvellously sweet (74% sugar).
A medium-thick viscosity and deep, cola-caramel colour. This invecchiato has an intoxicating, mildly acidic and sweet aroma. Sweet (71.8% sugar) and fizzy, with a wonderful, rich depth of flavour kept alive by bright, tart background notes. Very dense, thick and syrupy, with very dark, ochre and blood red colour tones. Acidic on the nose, with notes of sultana. Very sweet on the tongue (51% sugar), a bit like date syrup with a tart background. The most economical high-density product in the test.
