Estel Farrell-Roig took on a section of the Transilvanica Trail in Romania, describing it as a far wilder alternative to the Camino de Santiago. The 1,400-kilometer route crosses Romania diagonally from Putna to Drobeta Turnu Severin. Guided by Intrepid, Farrell-Roig hiked for five days, covering about 10 kilometers per day.
A Journey Begins: From Airport to Adventure
Farrell-Roig's trip began with a 4:30 am alarm and a flight from Stansted Airport to Cluj-Napoca. Upon landing, trip leader Raluca transported her north. The first meal—a mushroom and pickled pepper soup with sour cream, followed by roast chicken with potatoes—set the stage for a culinary journey.
Day 2: Monasteries and Forests
After a good night's sleep at Pension Elegance in Gura Humorului, Farrell-Roig enjoyed a typical Romanian breakfast. The first stop was the UNESCO-listed Sucevița Monastery, home to 80 nuns. The painted monastery impressed her despite her familiarity with Catholic churches. The hike began at Palma Pass checkpoint, leading through spruce forests under misty skies. Lunch at Popas la Cosma featured local dairy products, meats, cheeses, and pancakes filled with sweet cheese and blueberries.
Day 3: The Most Challenging Hike
A 45-minute transfer brought the group to Sadova trailhead via Vatra Moldoviței. The second day's 11-kilometer hike proved the most challenging due to sunny, warm weather. Farrell-Roig found the walking meditative, clearing her mind. Lunch at La Moara Bucovina restaurant included sarmale—stuffed cabbage rolls with rice and mince—which she called the best dish of the trip. The night was spent at Hotel Dorna in Vatra Dornei, a ski resort town.
Day 4: Wildlife and Guesthouses
On the third hiking day, the group drove to the Mestecăni trailhead, where Farrell-Roig bought souvenirs for £10—two mugs, three painted eggs, and a jigsaw puzzle. The hike felt easier, and highlights included spotting a frog and snakes. Lunch at Gigi Ursu Chalet offered stunning views and a terrace for sunbathing. She met two resident puppies and a friendly black cat.
Day 5: Return to Cluj-Napoca
The final day involved a three-and-a-half-hour drive back to Cluj-Napoca. After pasta lunch in a sunny square, Farrell-Roig explored the city center before heading to the airport. She reflected that while the Via Transilvanica may not yet compete with the Camino de Santiago or Via Francigena, it offers a rawness and quietness from walking through untouched parts of the world.
Booking Details
Intrepid Travel’s 10-day Hiking in Romania: Via Transilvanica Trail costs from £1,616 per person, including accommodation, ground transport, services of a local leader, guided hikes, and some meals. Book at intrepidtravel.com or call 0808 274 5111.
