Clare Fitzsimons travelled to Tromsø, the city nicknamed the 'Gateway to the Arctic', and found towering snow-capped mountains even in May, the sea on every side, beautiful traditional houses and a few trolls for company. Known as the 'Paris of the North', the city is the unofficial capital of the Arctic.
Midnight Sun and when to go
The best time to visit depends on what travellers are looking for. The famous northern lights are often visible from the city, and tourists come from around the world hoping to catch a glimpse. But late spring and summer also have advantages, including the Midnight Sun.
Walking out of a building in the middle of the night to find it full daylight is "undeniably weird — but also quite a lot wonderful", according to Fitzsimons. She advises taking an eye mask for sleeping.
How to get there and what to do
Visitors can fly into the city, but Fitzsimons cruised up the coast with Hurtigruten on the MS Trollfjord to enjoy the scenery, food and drink along the way.
The world's northernmost distillery, Aurora Spirits, is in Arctic Lyngen, a couple of hours' drive from Tromsø. The route passes the Lyngen Alps and fjords. The distillery, a former NATO base, makes whisky and other spirits using Arctic ingredients including local botanicals and glacier water, and matures whisky in underground bunkers. It also makes a special Seaweed Gin for Hurtigruten cruise ships.
Within walking distance of the city there are Norwegian heritage experiences celebrating the indigenous Sámi people, including joik (throat singing), duodji (Sámi handicrafts) and language classes. The Troll Museum offers a lighter look at Norwegian traditions. An Arctic sauna and polar plunge in the harbour is available for the brave.
Where to stay, eat and drink
Clarion The Edge on the waterfront offers comfortable rooms, a good breakfast and excellent blackout blinds, a short walk from the city centre. For a special dinner, Hildr has a pricey seasonal menu celebrating local Norwegian ingredients with a modern twist. Raketten Bar is known for its hot dogs, including a reindeer one, and is "hilariously tiny". Tromsø is also home to the world's northernmost McDonald's.
The city's streets are lined with bars and coffee shops. Fitzsimons was there to watch teams of relay racers, and the Midnight Sun Marathon takes place there too. She noted that prices can be higher than London bars.
Booking details
Hurtigruten's Svalbard Line (Northbound) travels from Bergen to Longyearbyen over eight days, with 14 departures between May 2027 and September 2027 on MS Trollfjord and MS Midnatsol. All-inclusive meals and unlimited selected drinks are included, with prices starting from £2,466pp based on two people sharing a Polar Inside cabin on MS Trollfjord departing 30 August 2027. Flights and transfer options start from £250pp per route.
