Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant repeatedly named among the world’s best, is set to reopen next week for the first time under new leadership since co-founder and former head chef René Redzepi stepped down following accusations of physical and psychological abuse.
Pablo Soto, the new executive head chef who has worked at Noma for nearly a decade, said the venue remained “the same Noma” but with significant changes, including a new evolving monthly menu and a stronger emphasis on helping employees live full lives.
Abuse allegations and apology
Since opening in 2003, Noma has been ranked the world’s best restaurant five times and holds three Michelin stars. Earlier this year, however, its future was thrown into doubt when Redzepi was accused of creating abusive working conditions – including punching, screaming and public shaming – between 2009 and 2017. The allegations emerged as Noma launched a pop-up in Los Angeles, and dozens of former employees spoke to the New York Times, with one saying going to work “felt like going to war”.
Redzepi responded: “Although I don’t recognise all details in these stories, I can see enough of my past behaviour reflected in them to understand that my actions were harmful to people who worked with me. To those who have suffered under my leadership, my bad judgment or my anger, I am deeply sorry and I have worked to change.”
A few days later he announced he would step away from the restaurant and resigned from his nonprofit, MAD.
Reopening in Copenhagen
When Noma reopens on Wednesday, it will face one of its biggest tests without Redzepi at the helm. Soto, taking a break from final preparations, said: “It’s the same Noma. We are simply back home – that is what is different.”
Before the allegations, Noma had planned to turn its Copenhagen restaurant, which closed in 2024, into a food laboratory. After the international fallout, the decision was made to reopen it instead. Soto told the Guardian: “After Los Angeles, the best thing, in my opinion, was to come back to something stable. Our beautiful restaurant. This was a good decision for the team because of course what happened created instability – it was a difficult thing.”
Soto admitted there had been moments in recent months when he feared for Noma’s future, but said he was confident it could regain its best-in-the-world status. “The team that has done it for so many years is still here. And that’s the number one marker of confidence right now,” he said.
Daily operations are now led by Soto, chief executive Annika de Las Heras, and Mette Brink Søberg, head of research and development. Redzepi remains involved in creative projects. Soto said: “That doesn’t mean he is banished from his company. We actually want his input.” He insisted he was “not stepping into René’s former role,” adding: “This is still his restaurant. He is now simply moving to the side to continue on other creative ventures.”
New menu and staff wellbeing
The reopening menu costs 4,500 DKK (about £515) per head, with wine pairing an additional 2,000 DKK (about £229). It will focus on ingredients available at that time of year, replacing the previous seasonal model built around seafood in winter, vegetables in spring and summer, and forest and game in autumn.
“It’s a menu that is dynamic, that can change day to day in many ways,” Soto said. Initially it will use berries, flowers, vegetables and sweet seafood, moving on by October to wild mushrooms, game, stone fruits and red shellfish.
Soto also plans to make sure the roughly 100 staff can maintain full lives outside work, including having children, pets and hobbies. “This is nothing new but is definitely something that is a priority, that people can continue their lives and continue to be at work,” he said.
