A visit to the newly reopened Salt and Malt fish and chip shop in Weston-super-Mare left a reviewer impressed, with the £18 cod and chips earning a two-word verdict: "top drawer".
Former Michelin-starred chef Josh Eggleton took over the seafront chippy, which had been in business for over 20 years, transforming it into one of his Salt & Malt restaurant and takeaway outlets within just a few weeks.
The transformation appears to have struck a chord with locals straight away. By 6pm on the summer Saturday of the visit, there was already a queue for tables inside the restaurant, with an even longer one snaking outside for takeaways.
A 'Posh' Chippy with Competitive Prices
The gleaming new Salt and Malt boasts blue-tiled frontage, black and white 'chessboard' floor tiles and ribbed glass partitions between booths, bearing a striking resemblance to existing branches. The upmarket fish and chip concept seems ripe for wider expansion.
Featuring sustainably sourced North Atlantic fish, gluten-free chips and daily specials - on this occasion, Cornish Mounts Bay sardines with toasted sourdough, salad and pickles - it's undeniably a 'posh' chippy. Yet Eggleton has been mindful not to price out everyday seaside visitors.
Takeaway prices remain reasonably competitive with most seafront chippies: small cod and chips is £12.50, battered sausages are £2.40, kids' meals are £7, chips in a cone are £2, and a large chip box is £5.60.
Restaurant Menu and Inventive Touches
Inside the restaurant, prices are naturally higher. Battered haddock and chips with buttered crushed garden peas comes in at £19, and a homemade fishcake with cod, haddock, lemon, dill and parsley is priced at £14.50. The children's menu (for ages 16 and under) is a reasonable £7.50, offering battered fish, sausage, chicken chunks, scampi and halloumi, all served with chips and a choice of peas, baked beans, carrots or cucumber.
Inventive touches set Salt and Malt apart from a typical seaside chippy. Alongside gluten-free batter as standard, diners can opt to have their cod or haddock baked in garlic butter rather than battered. Free chip refills are also on offer, though the portions are hearty enough that they may not be needed.
The Verdict: 'Top Drawer'
The reviewer and their companion sampled the cod and chips (£18) and the curried cod burger (£16.50), and neither disappointed. The cod was wrapped in crisp, golden batter, with large, moist and succulent flakes of fish inside, accompanied by a generous serving of buttery crushed peas.
Granted, £18 is above average for fish and chips, but this was a superb rendition of the great British seaside staple and well worth every penny. Nestled in a soft brioche bun, the curried cod burger featured a generous portion of lightly battered fish with a subtle curry sauce flavour, accompanied by tartare sauce, coleslaw and pickled red cabbage. The chips were perfectly cooked - crispy on the outside, fluffy within, and completely grease-free.
Essentially, the dish brought together all the finest elements of a traditional seaside chippy - fish and chips, a bread roll, curry sauce and classic burger toppings - and the combination was nothing short of brilliant. If summed up in just two words, they'd be "top drawer". Traditional chippy favourites paired with stunning coastal views - what more could anyone ask for?
