The first Monday in May marks the annual Met Gala, a spectacular collision of celebrities, designers, and cultural icons. Established in 1948, the gala was originally a high-society event to raise funds for the Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. When former Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour took over in 1995, she shifted the focus from New York's elites to celebrities, transforming it into a fashion juggernaut.
Each year brings a new theme and dress code. The theme reflects the Costume Institute's latest exhibition, while the dress code translates this theme into creative direction for attendees. This year's theme is 'Costume Art,' and the dress code is 'Fashion is Art.' These ideas showcase fashion as an embodied art form, exploring the historical connection between clothing, the body, the wearer, and art. So, is fashion art? And if so, at what point do clothes transform from something practical to something artistic?
Is Fashion Art?
Throughout his career, German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld upheld the separation of fashion and art. 'Art is art, fashion is fashion,' he said. His words were based on a distinction commonly understood in the art world between fine art and decorative art. Fine art is a creative expression designed to elicit an emotional or intellectual response, often unique and painstakingly created. Decorative art, on the other hand, is aesthetically pleasing but also functional, commercial, and mass-produced. For these reasons, Lagerfeld did not see fashion as art.
Conversely, pop artist Andy Warhol declared: 'fashion is more art than art is.' Warhol's works were defined by pop culture, consumerism, capitalism, and mass media, holding a mirror to society. Fashion does this too, revealing societal norms and values. Warhol often crossed into fashion through collaborations with designers like Diane Von Furstenberg and Halston. Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli also saw fashion as art, stating 'designing is not a profession but an art.' She was among the earliest to challenge the art-fashion distinction. Her works are currently on display at London's Victoria and Albert Museum, part of a trend showcasing haute couture as art.
Haute Couture and Public Appetite
Haute couture, meaning 'high dressmaking,' is exclusive, high-end fashion distinct from mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing. One of the first major haute couture exhibits came in 2011 from the Met itself: 'Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty' attracted over 600,000 visitors, becoming one of the most visited exhibits in Met history. Public appetite has only grown since then. Last year, the Louvre Couture exhibit in Paris received more than one million visitors.
Fashion and Modern Society
But can everyday fashion be art too? Designer John Galliano suggested as much: 'the joy of dressing is an art.' Dressing is an active practice vital for participation in society, not just for modesty but because attire speaks of identity. Clothing designates how people want to be perceived, marking gender, social status, political affiliation, and heritage. Haute couture artists are also becoming more accessible. Galliano, lead designer at Christian Dior from 1997 to 2011, is now partnered with fast-fashion giant Zara in a two-year collaboration. Perhaps fashion becomes art when it transcends functionality and becomes performative, creative, or inspirational.
Interpreting Met Gala Fashions
So how might we approach judging fashion as art at this year's Met Gala? First, ask yourself if the outfit evokes emotion—not just awe or joy, but even shock, hate, or fascination. The primary purpose of art is to elicit feeling. In 2022, Kim Kardashian sparked outrage when she wore Marilyn Monroe's famous 'Happy Birthday, Mr President' dress. The theme that year was 'In America: An Anthology of Fashion.' For many, Monroe and her gown represented the height of American culture. Kardashian's use of the dress sparked conversations about historical objects, ethics, and celebrity culture. As you watch this year's gala, examine whether any outfits stimulate thought or conversation about politics, history, technology, or culture. Designers often use colours, textiles, and shapes to express something about society, sometimes subtly, sometimes explicitly. In 2021, U.S. politician Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez wore a white gown with 'tax the rich' on the back, referencing extreme wealth disparity. Fashion reflects who we are and the world we live in. If that isn't art, what is?
