Welcome to Polished with Elise Wilson, where Daily Mail's qualified makeup artist and hair stylist answers your questions, shares advice, and trials the up-and-coming beauty and skincare trends so you don't have to.
There was a time when makeup artists guarded their tricks like state secrets. The kind of techniques you'd only ever see backstage at Fashion Week or whispered about on celebrity shoots. But in the past five years, the beauty industry has changed dramatically. Celebrity makeup artists have become celebrities themselves, TikTok has shifted how we consume beauty advice, and insider tricks are now shared in 30-second tutorials directly to our phones.
As a long-time makeup artist, I've had to completely rethink my routine. The makeup I wore five years ago looks completely different today. Part of that is due to the 'Australian Effect', but a huge part comes from small technique tweaks that make a big difference. Here are three makeup tricks that have transformed how my makeup sits on my skin, and surprisingly, few people know about them.
Foundation Hack
For years, I alternated between fingers, sponges, and dense buffing brushes for foundation application. While fingers work well, I could never consistently achieve that expensive satin finish without streaks or patchiness. Then I watched international makeup artist Nathan Kake apply foundation and understood his flawless skin secret. Instead of pumping foundation directly onto the face or brush, he pumps it into his palm, then swirls a large soft fluffy brush into the product to coat the fibres evenly while warming the foundation. It sounds messy, but the difference is enormous. The warmth slightly melts the formula before it hits the skin, while coating the brush prevents concentrated blobs that cause streaks. Then, buff the foundation in circular motions rather than dragging or painting it on. The skin still looks like skin, but smoother, softer, and almost airbrushed without looking heavy.
Concealer Hack
This trick is one I wish more women over 30 knew about. Most of us apply concealer as beauty YouTube taught us a decade ago—heavy triangles under the eyes layered over foundation. That technique often does the opposite of what we want: too much product emphasises fine lines, creates creasing, and drags the face down. Now, I leave the under-eye area free of foundation and just apply hydrating skincare. Once eye cream sinks in, I lightly spritz setting spray—Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray is the best—onto a fluffy eyeshadow brush and sweep it underneath the eyes first. This creates a flexible grip for concealer and prevents a cracked, dry look later. Then, instead of dragging concealer into the inner corner under the lash line, I place a small dot slightly lower, aiming for underneath the inner corner near the bridge of the nose, where the darkest shadows sit. Another dot goes at the outer corner, not too close to the lashline. Using the same fluffy brush, I buff the concealer in tiny swirling motions moving outward. There's no obvious block of product, no thick mask, and far less creasing. The key is restraint: lighter, strategically placed concealer looks more youthful than heavy layers.
Contouring Hack
Contouring has gone through many phases. It started as a backstage technique, became a full-blown internet phenomenon with grey stripes and muddy jawlines, but when done properly, it subtly reshapes and defines the face. The biggest mistake is placing contour directly into the hollows of the cheeks, which drags the face downward and makes cheeks appear gaunt. Instead, contour slightly above the hollow. Using a matte cream contour—matte is important because contour and bronzer are not the same—start near the top of the ear and sweep just above the cheekbone, stopping halfway down the face in line with the outer corner of the eye. Use a stippling brush to buff outward in circular motions, never dragging inward. This instantly creates a lifted effect and the illusion of higher cheekbones without looking harsh. Once blush and highlight are layered softly above, the whole face looks fresher and more sculpted. The funny thing about makeup is that most transformations come from understanding placement, texture, and technique—sometimes the tiniest adjustment can completely change your face.
Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are solely my own and do not reflect those of any brands or companies mentioned. This content is not sponsored or endorsed.
