Retinol Skincare: A Comprehensive Expert Guide to Benefits and Safe Usage
The Independent's journalism is supported by our readers. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn commission. Why trust us? What is retinol? Benefits and how to use it in your skincare routine. We asked not one, not two, but four experts to answer all your burning questions about the in-demand ingredient. Lauren Cunningham Wednesday 01 May 2024 13:15 BST. Can you use hyaluronic acid, niacinamide or salicylic acid with retinol? We asked the experts (iStock/ The Independent).
Any beauty enthusiast will be familiar with retinol by now. The highly sought-after ingredient has been celebrated as the solution for smoother, more youthful, and line-reduced skin for quite some time, although its usage does not come without fair warnings. In fact, it is only recently that the European Union Commission proposed tighter restrictions on this much-loved skincare component – banning its use above certain concentrations to reduce unwanted side effects. Purging, redness, and irritation are all potential issues if used without caution.
What Is Retinol and Why Is It So Popular?
"Retinol is a type of retinoid that is derived from Vitamin A," shares Aruj Javid, Lookfantastic’s in-house pharmacist. "It is a very sought-out skin-beneficial ingredient in the skincare market due to its ability to help with many skin issues, such as a loss of firmness, fine lines and wrinkles often experienced by maturer-looking skin, acne-prone skin, an uneven skin tone, and generally skin that tends to appear dull and lacks radiance."
Dr Derrick Phillips, a consultant dermatologist specialising in acne, rosacea, rashes, and skin cancer, adds that "almost everyone can benefit from having a retinoid in their skincare routine, and the key is to start low and gradually build up over time."
What Does Retinol Do for Your Skin?
"There are multiple benefits to using retinol within your routine," explains Dr Jinah Yoo, a consultant dermatologist, medical director, and founder of the Maylin x Dr Jinah Yoo dermatology clinic. "It reduces wrinkles and fine lines as it stimulates collagen production which helps to improve skin elasticity and firmness, ultimately reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. It also improves overall skin texture when used regularly, resulting in a smoother, more even skin tone by promoting cell turnover and exfoliation."
Dr Hiba Injibar, consultant dermatologist and founder of Dermasurge Clinic, added that retinol has been found to "help address concerns such as hyperpigmentation." So, if that is a key concern of yours, it looks like retinol could also be just what you are looking for.
How to Use Retinol Safely and Effectively
As retinol can be an irritant, how and when you use it is a key factor. Javid stresses that the most important thing when using retinol is to introduce it to your skincare routine slowly. "If you are trying retinol for the first time, start at a lower percentage and then build up accordingly," she says. "Remember you only need a pea-sized amount each time you apply retinol." We have included a list of all the expert-recommended products below, with beginner-friendly options included.
Once you have found the perfect product, "begin using it two to three times a week, gradually increasing frequency as tolerated," recommends Dr Injibar. And when it comes to applying it, at night is always best. "Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat it dry before applying retinol – you always want to apply it to clean, dry skin as this helps to ensure maximum absorption of the product," adds Dr Yoo.
"Use a pea-sized amount and gently massage it onto your face and neck. To help prevent dryness and irritation, follow up with a moisturiser once the retinol has fully absorbed into your skin," Dr Yoo continues. And remember, "it is essential that you use a sunscreen of SPF30 or higher every morning as retinol can increase skin sensitivity to sunlight." Plus, it is always advised to do a patch test before introducing a skin ingredient or product to your skin routine, especially if it is your first time.
Can You Combine Retinol with Other Skincare Ingredients?
Of course, many of us have a range of skincare products all targeting different concerns. While vitamin C brightens, hyaluronic acid hydrates and AHA’s and BHA’s slough away dead skin cells so your skin is soft and supple. But as retinol is an active ingredient, you do have to be careful with what you layer on top or underneath it.
Dr Yoo stresses that it is best to avoid combining retinol with other active ingredients as this can cause "extreme irritation." This is why the experts advise applying retinol to a cleansed face and applying only a moisturiser on top to help hydrate the skin. So, best to use your vitamin C serums in the morning, retinol at night, two to three times per week, and your other favourite skincare serums on the days in between to avoid any crossover.
Although, as we all know, sometimes moisturisers are not all that simple, so make sure to double-check what is included in the ingredients list. What Dr Yoo means by active ingredients are ones that have been scientifically proven to have an effect on the skin – think Vitamin C, salicylic acid and glycolic acid. So it is best to leave a good amount of time in between using these products and retinol, i.e., one in the morning, one in the evening or on alternate days. Hyaluronic acid and niacinamide get a big thumbs up however, despite being active ingredients, they are gentle enough and help to hydrate the skin, meaning they can even lessen the drying effects of retinol.
Expert-Recommended Retinol Products
For Javid, the CeraVe resurfacing retinol serum (£23, Lookfantastic.com) is a great beginner-friendly retinol, while Ole Henriksen’s double rewind 0.3 per cent pro-grade retinol serum (£59, Cultbeauty.co.uk) is best used for those comfortable with the ingredient.
Dr Yoo recommends Skinceuticals retinol 0.3 corrective treatment (£65, Lookfantastic.com) and budget-friendly The Ordinary retinol serum (£8.50, Cultbeauty.co.uk). ZO Skin Health wrinkle texture and repair retinol (£109.99, Faceteethsmile.shop) was Dr Injibar’s pick alongside the NeoStrata correct comprehensive retinol eye cream (£42, Facethefuture.co.uk). And Medik8’s crystal retinal 6 (£69, Lookfantastic.com) got Dr Phillips’ seal of approval.
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