Anti-ageing – I know, I know. It’s a gross and futile term. I considered using another. Perhaps one of the more modern marketing slogans such as “skin longevity” or “positive age management”. But my commitment to honesty in beauty extends to not fooling myself or my reader: we all know what these terms mean, and I know which one consumers Google in their millions.
I turned 50 recently. I was and am delighted about it. To still be alive, healthy, loved and in love feels like a lottery win. I’ve no desire to return to my 20s or 30s, when I cared more, knew less and had greater insecurities around my appearance than now. I don’t believe many of us at any age wish to be mistaken for someone much younger. And yet we know that people of all ages would like to keep skin glowier, smoother, juicier, firmer and flexible for longer. It’s a fine thing to want, and I find any accusations that this signals shame and desperation around growing old to be hugely patronising and selective. If you don’t care about skin ageing, great. Carry on. If you do, the products here will help in a realistic way.
There are deliberate omissions. There are no cleansers here. Cleansing is the second most important step after sun protection. But because creams, balms and washes are on our faces so briefly, their ability to do anything lasting to skin’s ageing process is limited. Cleansing is vital to healthy skin. So the key is to do it – whichever cleanser is a pleasure to use, effective in makeup, dirt and sunscreen removal, regardless of anti-ageing claims.
Similarly, I haven’t included eye creams, which is perhaps controversial, given that brands – and consumers – believe them to be the magic bullet against signs of ageing. They aren’t. If you love them, or can’t tolerate your usual skincare around the eyes, get one. But you don’t need an eye cream if your facial products contain the right anti-ageing ingredients and can be worn comfortably all over (I know very few dermatologists who use eye creams). And no, I don’t believe any cream or serum will change the presence of loose eye bags – you’ll need to see an aesthetic doctor if that’s what is driving you crazy.
I also haven’t covered makeup because it is dependent on skin type and aesthetic preference, and because I am more appalled by the term “age appropriate” than “anti-ageing”. If one feels the urge to wear neon-pink lipstick at 50 or glittery eyeliner at 90, then one should do so. Time is finite. Enjoy it.
Whenever a reader asks me to recommend a dermatologist for a cosmetic (rather than a health) concern, I always suggest saving the consultation fee and trying Klira in the first instance. Founded by Dr Emma Craythorne, one of beauty’s most respected and revered consultant dermatologists, Klira is a service offering a thorough skin analysis (comprising 51 questions), followed by home delivery of bespoke prescription skincare, freshly made for each customer and charged monthly. All common cosmetic complaints are treated – including the signs of skin ageing – with one simple, easy-to-use cream. So, while the service isn’t cheap, it may prove more affordable than the cumulative cost of a multi-step routine using over-the-counter products.
