Bitter ingredients are not to everyone's taste, but during the darkest months they can make one feel alive, according to cookery writer Meera Sodha. Her latest recipe pairs the bittersweet maroon leaves of radicchio with juicy chianti in an elegant winter risotto, finished with a walnut pesto.
Sodha recommends radicchio di chioggia, a chubby cabbage-like variety with a moderate bitterness that becomes milder and sweeter when cooked. While only a couple of major UK supermarkets stock it, it can be found at farmers' markets or online via retailers such as Abel & Cole and Natoora.
The risotto begins by sweating onion and garlic in butter, then cooking two-thirds of the chopped radicchio until wilted. Arborio rice is added and coated, followed by chianti, which is fully absorbed. Hot vegetable stock is added ladleful by ladleful over about 20 minutes until the rice is al dente. Parmesan and pepper are stirred in, and the risotto rests with a lid on while the pesto is prepared.
The walnut pesto combines extra-virgin olive oil, shredded sage, finely chopped walnuts, the remaining raw radicchio, lemon zest and juice, and grated parmesan. The risotto is served topped with the pesto, extra parmesan, and a drizzle of olive oil.
