Coronation chicken, once a royal favourite, has seen a decline in fortunes from its 1953 debut to becoming a soggy sandwich filling. Created by Le Cordon Bleu founder Rosemary Hume, not florist Constance Spry as often claimed, the dish was a compromise between luxury and thrift during postwar rationing. Originally called poulet reine Elizabeth, it was designed as Britain's first 'TV dinner', easy to prepare in advance and eat with a fork.
Rosemary Hume's original recipe surprisingly involves poaching a whole chicken with herbs and vegetables, then cooling it in the liquid. The dressing is more complex than modern versions: onion softened in oil, then curry powder, tomato puree, red wine, water, salt, sugar, pepper, and lemon juice simmered for 10 minutes. After cooling, it is folded through mayonnaise with apricot puree and whipped cream. The result is paler and more delicate than today's lurid versions.
Telegraph food guru Xanthe Clay tested a modern recipe from reader Simon Scutt, which requires roasting chicken with orange and spices, making a spicy stock, and a marinade with saffron, turmeric, milk, and mango chutney. After chilling overnight, it is folded with crème fraîche and mayonnaise. However, tasters found the sauce bland and liquid, comparing it to a chicken korma – underwhelming despite the effort.
While coronation chicken may be more retro than regal today, its convenience and flavour still make it a party standby. The original recipe offers a delicate balance of sweet fruit and tangy lemon, but for modern palates, it lacks oomph. Whether celebrating a royal wedding or a bank holiday, this dish remains a nostalgic taste of 1950s Britain.
