Eight top chefs have been quizzed on their methods for perfect roast potatoes, and they all agree on one overlooked rule: steam-drying after par-boiling. While opinions vary on fats—goose fat, olive oil, or lard—the unanimous tip is to leave boiled potatoes in a colander for 10–15 minutes, covered with a clean tea towel, to ensure a restaurant-quality crispy finish.
Tom De Keyser, head chef at the Chalk Freehouse in Chelsea, goes a step further by creating a “starchy paste.” After par-boiling, he mashes a couple of potato pieces with cooking water, then rolls each potato in the paste for extra crunch and surface area. Most chefs recommend Maris Piper potatoes for their floury texture, which yields a fluffy interior and crispy exterior.
Salting the boiling water seasons the potatoes from within and locks in nutrients. Some cooks, like restaurateur Will Murray, add extra salt during steam-drying to draw out moisture for even crispier results. The fat—whether oil, butter, or goose fat—should be preheated in a hot oven at around 200°C until sizzling before adding the potatoes.
Current trends on TikTok suggest substituting clotted cream (200g per 1.5kg potatoes) or adding a tablespoon of Marmite to oil for an umami twist. However, chefs advise testing these on another day to avoid upsetting traditionalists at Christmas dinner.
