Charlie Bigham, known for his premium ready meals, has launched a new Brasserie range with prices reaching up to £30. The line includes venison bourguignon, coq au vin, confit duck (all £16.95), salmon Wellington (£19.95), and beef Wellington (£29.95). Critics have long mocked Bigham's products as 'Tory slop', but the company sold 31 million dishes last year.
The coq au vin requires some preparation: removing the chicken from the sauce to crisp up separately. While the chicken was juicy and the potato and celeriac dauphinoise impressed, the sauce lacked the depth of a slow-simmered version. It scored 6/10, paired with a Dominique Piron Beaujolais Villages (£14.40).
The confit duck looked appealing but was dry under its garlic-parmesan crumb. The lentil sauce and browned butter potatoes were better received than the meat itself. It rated 4/10, with a Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico (£16, on offer for £11 until 28 October).
The salmon Wellington was the standout, despite scepticism about baking sashimi-grade salmon for 50 minutes. The pastry was crisp, the salmon succulent, and the mushroom duxelles with fennel was praised. Even a former chef guest admitted it was good. It scored 9/10, paired with Chapel Down English Rosé (£16, on offer for £14 until 28 October).
Overall, while the Brasserie range aims to replicate restaurant dining at home, results vary. The salmon Wellington offers good value, but others fall short of their price tags.
