Paris Fashion Week has signaled the end of comfort dressing, with designers ditching puff sleeves and floaty layers in favour of sharp tailoring, shoulder pads, and spike heels. The shift follows John Lewis's controversial decision to abandon the floral midi dress, suggesting a broader change in fashion's direction.
At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello recreated the opulence of Yves Saint Laurent's 1990s haute couture shows, presenting tuxedo jackets over silk camisoles, high-waisted trousers, and simple court shoes. The show, attended by Catherine Deneuve, drew a sense of awe that had been missing from the pandemic-era loungewear era.
Other designers echoed the theme. Balmain opted for a mellow show with Frank Sinatra and polka dots, while Schiaparelli served neat suits and velvet eveningwear. Miu Miu closed the week with tobacco-coloured suits and caramel twin sets. Even the 'Emily in Paris' aesthetic of goofy colours faded, with cast members attending shows in black tailoring and lace gloves.
The new look is not universally popular, but designers are reasserting the case for pulling oneself together. At Dior, slogan T-shirts quoted Edith Piaf: 'Je ne regrette rien.' While some see the trend as a step towards grownup clothes, others note its association with ultra-lean body types.
